Things to do in Bangkok

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Dusit Throne Hall

This circa-1904 white hall built for King Rama V houses a mother-of-pearl throne topped by a regal umbrella. The umbrella may appear a bit tatty, but that's because it is only changed when a new king accedes to the throne, and the current King Bhumibol Adulyadej is the world's longest reigning monarch.

The hall is home to an interesting array of work crafted by members of the catchily-named Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and Related Techniques Foundation (SUPPORT), which is sponsored by the Queen. Handicrafts range from traditional clothes and baskets to silverwork and sculptures made from beetle wings.

Proper dress is necessary and be warned, clothes cannot be hired here. Bags, shoes and photographic and filming equipment must be left in lockers.



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Just down the road from Vimanek Teak Mansion
Opening Hours: Daily 10:00-16:00
How to get there: The Throne Hall is within easy walking distance east from Vimanmek Mansion.

Phra Sumen Fort

This very pleasant park sits below the Phra Sumen Fort. Particularly popular with Thais during the weekends, the park is a great spot to relax by the banks of the Chao Phraya River while snacking on the plentiful supply of Thai snacks on sale in the area.

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At the corner of Phra Arthit and Phra Sumen Roads
Opening Hours: Daily

Lumpini Park

This large park, complete with a criss-cross of canals and a lake, is a perfect escape from the hectic Bangkok streets, with the traffic reduced to only a quiet roar. It is a must for anyone seeking some solace and quiet time, and a welcome alternative to locking yourself in your hotel room. A few vendors sell snacks and meals around the park.

In the mornings, thousands of Thais flock here for everything from ballroom dancing to yoga, while the afternoons see mostly joggers clogging the internal roads.



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Hemmed in by Rama 4, Ratchadamri, Sarasin and Witthayu Roads
Opening Hours: Daily 05:00-20:00
How to get there: The two closest BTS stations are Saladaeng and Ratchadamri. Both are about a five-minute walk from a park entrance.

Wat Pathum Wannaram

This pleasant forest wat offers respite from the smog, noise and chaos of the city. Despite its close proximity to Rama I, the temple has a reputation as a meditation centre.

Construction of the temple was ordered in 1857 and once it was completed some monks from Wat Bowonniwet were invited to take up residence. The temple's two principle Buddha images date back to the Rama III period and were imported from Vientiane.

To get to the forested part, enter via the Rama 1 entrance and make your way towards the rear right hand-corner of the complex. From there the path leads around to the meditation area and greenery. Unfortunately, the detailed signage around the complex is only in Thai. No photography is allowed once you are in the forest enclosure.

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Rama 1 Road
Opening Hours: Daily, dawn to dusk
How to get there: Get off the BTS at Siam Square. The temple is wedged between the Siam Paragon construction site and World Trade Centre.

The Grand Palace

The Grand Palace was constructed in 1782 to commemorate and house the current dynasty of Thai royals. Most of the walled-in palace compound is still used by the royal family and therefore closed to the public.

The magnificent buildings within the compound were built over the reigns of several kings and as such show a variety of Thai architectural styles. Just taking a walk through the grounds alone is enough to soak up some of the regal extravagance.

Before the Dusit Hall is Chakri Mahaprasat, designed by English architects. You are not allowed in, but the gardens are picturesque. Before Chakri Mahaprasat is Amarinda Hall, used for coronation ceremonies. The Pavilion for Holy Water is a traditional hall where priests used to attend a ceremony to swear allegiance to the king. The Royal Thai Decoration and Coin Museum is open to the public and contains displays of Thai currency dating back as far as the 11th century as well as a variety of royal paraphernalia.

Admission also gives you access to Wat Phra Kaew, Vimanmek Mansion and the Dusit Throne Hall.

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Na Phra Lan Road
Opening Hours: Daily 8:30-11:30, 13:00-15:30
How to get there: Via the Chao Phraya River Express Boat, alight at Tha Chang Pier. Buses servicing the area include ordinary buses 1, 25, 44, 47, 53, 82 and 91, as well as A/C buses 3, 6, 8, 12 and 44.

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Adjacent to the Grand Palace and built in 1782 by King Rama I, Wat Phra Kaew, or Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is home to the most sacred image in Thailand, the Emerald Buddha -- actually made of jade. It was moved from Chiang Mai, where it was found in 1464, to its current resting place, but its origins are unknown.

When not being used by the royal family, the temple is open to the public. The temple and chapel contain architectural features from both the Ayutthaya and Rattanakosin periods and detailed murals featuring the life of Buddha and the Ramakien.

Entry will be refused if you are not dressed appropriately, and photography, filming and recording is strictly banned indoors. Remember to remove your shoes upon entering and if seated, turn the soles of your feet away so they are not facing the Buddha.

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Na Phra Lan Road
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-16:00
How to get there: Via the Chao Phraya River Express Boat, jump off at Tha Chang. Buses servicing the area include ordinary buses 1, 25, 44, 47, 53, 82 and 91, as well as A/C buses 3, 6, 8, 12 and 44.

Vimanmek Teak Mansion

This incredible teak mansion is a must-see site. Originally constructed on Ko Si Chang in the mid-19th century, King Rama V decreed that it be moved to Dusit Gardens following a trip to Europe in 1897. Four years later the mansion was officially opened and the king adopted it as his permanent place of residence. He lived there for five years before moving to Amporn Satern residence until his death in 1910. During the reign of King Rama VI, Her Majesty Indhara Saksal lived there until her husband's death, after which it remained unoccupied until 1982. It then reopened as a museum featuring some work of King Rama V.

The mansion displays an undeniably Western influence, with much of the ornamentation originating from Europe and North America. In all there are 31 stunning rooms open to the public. The bathroom features Thailand's first shower.

The mansion is formed by two right-angled wings each of three storeys, and the octagonal residence of the king, which is four storeys. The mansion is said to be the largest of its kind in the world.



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Opening Hours: Daily 09:30-15:30
How to get there: To reach the mansion, buses 17, 18, 28, 58, 70 or A/C 10, 18 and 3 all pass within a reasonable walking distance.

Wat Pho

This immense complex is the largest temple in Bangkok and is reputed to be Thailand's oldest learning centre. Quite fittingly, it also contains the oldest and largest reclining Buddha in Thailand. The feet of the Buddha, which are over 3m long, have been inlaid with mother-of-pearl displaying 108 different characteristics of the Buddha. The gold-plated statue is 46m long and 15m high and represents the ascension of Buddha to Nirvana.

The wall facing the Buddha is lined with collection cups into each of which you can drop a coin. Small change is available at the desk. You can also purchase temple rubbings made from cement casts of marble reliefs removed from ruins at Ayutthaya.

One of the galleries in the northeastern corner of the compound houses 394 Buddha images. The building itself is a three-tiered temple, with Chinese rock sculptures at its entrance. The walls of another sanctuary are adorned with relief plaques that delicately retell stories from the Ramakien. You will also notice four chedis that were built to represent the first four kings who ruled during the current Chakri dynasty.

The original temple dates from the 16th century, although the complex was entirely rebuilt in the late 18th century. Wat Pho is also home to a Traditional Medicine School and in the afternoons your ailments can be treated by traditional methods. Traditional massage is also available -- try one with a herbal poultice -- and classes are held for foreigners.


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South of the Grand Palace
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-17:00
How to get there: Wat Pho is situated to the south of the Grand Palace between Thai Wang, Sanamchai, Chetupon and Mahathat Roads. It's about a five-minute walk south of Sanam Luang and the entrance is on Thai Wang Road. The closest pier for the Chao Phraya River Express is Tha Tien, buses 1, 3, 6, 9, 12, 25, 48 and A/C 44 all run along Chetuphon Road.

Christian Cemetery

This historic cemetery spanning Silom Soi 9 is now in a pretty poor state, with the remains of those buried here slowly being relocated following the introduction of laws forbidding burials within city limits. Many of the graves are open or have been smashed, though some such as the Xavier Crypt are still intact.

Given the value of the land, it's not difficult to imagine there being ulterior motives for the change in regulations, particularly as dead continue to be buried in other parts of town.

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Silom Soi 9

Wat Arun

When King Taksin planned to move the capital from Ayutthaya to Thonburi in 1768, he travelled down the Chao Phraya River by boat, arriving at dawn at an old wat where he paid his respects. He later named the temple Wat Jang, meaning the Temple of Dawn. It was later renovated by King Rama I and then King Rama III and became known at Wat Arun when Thonburi was the capital. Wat Arun was temporarily home to the Emerald Buddha, after which it was moved to Wat Phra Kaew where it remains today.

The courtyard of the wat contains five Khmer-style prangs, with the most impressive and largest in the centre representing Mount Meru, home of the gods in Buddhist belief. The middle prang was originally 16m tall but was stretched to reach over 82m by King Rama III in 1842. This elongation has given the prang a particular style all of its own. The prangs are decorated with Chinese porcelain and the apex of the central prang is covered by a crown originally constructed for a different wat.

It is possible to climb about halfway up the prang from where fine views of Thonburi and the Chao Phraya River can be enjoyed. The prang has four mondops around it, each of which contains a Buddha image striking a different pose.

Back at ground level, the bot contains a seated Buddha image, the face of which was designed by King Rama II. At particular times of the year a light and sound show is held on the grounds in the early evening, spectacularly lighting up the main prang.

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Opening Hours: Daily 08:30-17:30
How to get there: Catch the cross-river ferry from Tha Tien at Thai Wang Road. The wharf is about a 10-minute walk from the Grand Palace. Tha Tien can be reached by the Chao Phraya River Express ferry or buses 44, 91, A/C 8 or 44.

Wat Traimit

The incredible five-metre high Buddha image here is solid gold and weighs around five tonnes. It is the largest solid gold Buddha in the world and is one of Thailand's (and Buddhism's) greatest treasures.

The Buddha is over 700 years old but it was not until 1955 that it was discovered to be solid gold. It was encased in plaster at some stage -- probably to hide it from marauding Burmese -- and it was not until it was chipped while being moved that its hidden splendour was uncovered. Some of the plaster is on display in a side cabinet.

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Traimit Road
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-17:00
How to get there: The wat is about a five-minute walk from Hualamphong train station along Trai Mit Road.

Wat Mahathat

The wat itself is fairly unremarkable but it is home to Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of the most highly esteemed sites of Buddhist learning in the country. During Buddhist holy days a busy market is held on the premises where, among other things, traditional medicines are sold. Opposite the entrance, along Mahathat Road, is a sizeable amulet market which is worth a peek. Vipassana meditation courses are run here.

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Na Phra That Road
Opening Hours: Daily 09:00-17:00
How to get there: This wat is on Mahathat Road about a five-minute walk from the entrance to the Grand Palace. The closest Chao Phraya River Express pier is Tha Maharaj.

Wat Saket and the Golden Mount

An important wat restored during the reign of King Rama I, Wat Saket is now also home to the prominent Golden Mount, added to an artificial hill created during the rule of King Rama III. The original chedi built on the spot at this time collapsed, creating the hill, but it was left as a pile of rubble until King Rama IV built the golden chedi at its peak, reaching 100m high.

Additions were added by King Rama V, who also placed a Buddha relic within the chedi. Final restoration work was made during World War II when the white concrete walls were added, making a striking contrast to the golden chedi. It is possible to walk up the 318 stairs to the top, from where the view over the surrounding city is excellent.

The wat compound also houses some important Buddha statues. The main hall, built in King Rama I's time, holds a meditating Buddha image from the early Chakri dynasty. The Shrine Hall houses Phra Attharos, a 10.3m high image from Phitsanulok, and Luangphor Dusit, a Buddha statue from Dusit Palace. These are closed to the public except during Songkran.

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Boriphat Road
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-17:30
How to get there: The entrance is on Boriphat Road and is a 15-minute walk from Khao San Road and the Democracy Monument. It is also very close to the starting point for the canal boats that run down Khlong Saem Saep.

Wat Bovornivet

Within the walls of Wat Bovorn is Mahamakut Buddhist University, the second in Bangkok. Since its foundation in 1826 -- when it was originally known as Wat Mai -- the wat has been home to a number of royals who entered the monkhood. Many foreign monks have also resided here and continue to visit to attend religious ceremonies conducted in English.

The wat is worth a look for its beautiful buildings and large golden stupa. The compound also contains ponds where giant turtles and catfish happily swim about. Also within the compound is the Centre for Herbal Medicine, where herbs and special trees with therapeutic benefits are labelled.

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Phra Sumen Road
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-17:00
How to get there: The closest Chao Phraya River Express pier is either Tha Athit or Tha Wat Sam Phraya and the wat is a 10-minute walk from Khao San Road.

Wat Benchamabophit

The white Italian-marble Wat Benchamabophit was restored and enlarged in 1899 by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and according to his wishes, some of his ashes are now interred at the base of the central Buddha image. The wat has a huge collection of Buddha statues from different periods from all over the Buddhist world. Another attraction is the chanting hall, which is surrounded by a gallery of 52 Buddha images from various periods and regions.

Besides the stunning marble, another European touch is the wat's stained glass windows -- it is the only wat in Thailand featuring them. Within the grounds is a canal full of turtles given to the wat by those wishing to make merit.



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Sri Ayutthaya Road
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-17:30
How to get there: The wat is situated by the intersection of Sri Ayutthaya and Rama V Roads to the south of Dusit. Buses 5, 72 and A/C 3 stop nearby.

Wat Prayoon

Wat Prayoon lies within a compound surrounded by lush trees on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. It is a little out of the way, but if you are in the area you may want to poke your head in. The most interesting feature of this place is the hill located within the grounds.

The temple is a result of King Rama III becoming awestruck by a particularly interesting mould left by the dripping of a candle. He was so inspired that he ordered an exact replica be built -- the kind of thing you can get away with if you are a king.

Reaching a height of over 10m, the hill is surrounded by a moat containing turtles and pocketed with small vaults which contain the cremated remains of wealthy families.

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Prachatipok Road
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-17:30
How to get there: The closest ferry stop is Tha Saphan Phut from where you will need to cross the river.

Wat Suthat

Wat Suthat is best known for its fine murals dating from the 19th century and collection of Buddha images. Construction of the wat began in 1807 during the reign of King Rama I and once completed, he requested that an important Buddha image, the Phra Sisakayamunee from Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai, be displayed here. The image is Thailand's largest cast bronze image and is believed to have been cast in 1361.

Plenty of shops stocking religious paraphernalia dot the surrounding neighbourhood.

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146 Bamrung Muang Road
info@watsuthat.org
http://www.watsuthat.org
Opening Hours: Daily
How to get there: Wat Suthat is near the Giant Swing on Bamrung Muang Road.

Wat Ratchanatdaram and the Amulet Market

Built in 1846 during the reign of King Rama III, Wat Ratchanatdaram's main attraction is the Loha Prasat which stands 36m high and has 37 spires surrounding it.

The wat is also known for the large amulet market around its entrance. The variety of amulets, available to protect one in almost any situation, is incredible. Designs of images with a number of eyes will keep you safe from accidents, while a Buddha covering his eyes will bring you luck. There's plenty more: well worth a browse.

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Mahachai Road
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-17:00
How to get there: Wat Ratchanatdaram is on Mahachai Road, on the other side of the khlong from the Golden Mount.

National Museum

Thailand's first museum was established during the reign of King Rama IV when he used two of the buildings within the Grand Palace to showcase his personal collection. The first public museum was opened in 1874 and was relocated to the current site in 1887. It is now the largest of its kind in Southeast Asia, featuring fine examples of art from throughout the region, some dating back to Neolithic times. A must-see if you're travelling throughout north and central Thailand.

Highlights include Room 15, which has a large collection of musical instruments and recorded music. Room 17 contains the ornate Royal Funeral Chariots, while room 13 displays some impressive wood carvings including an incredible set of 15 cm-thick teak doors carved in the 19th century and partially damaged by fire in 1959. Rooms 1 and 2 display some items more than 5,000 years old, which are well displayed to explain Thailand's heritage. A good collection of Thai art from the Sukhothai period graces the museum, while a gallery dedicated to the Dvaravati and Khmer periods is also comprehensive.

Exhibits carry English information and free tours are available. English tours are Wednesdays and Thursdays departing from the ticket kiosk at 09:30. Wednesdays focus on Buddhism while Thursdays cover Thai culture and art. English literature is also available for 70B though it is organised in a bit of a random fashion. A restaurant on the grounds makes the museum a rather civilised spot to spend a morning or afternoon browsing through the different pavilions.

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4 Na Phra That Road
Opening Hours: Wed-Sun 09:00-16:00
How to get there: The museum is on the west side of Sanam Luang, just over 500m north of the Grand Palace and also within walking distance of Wat Mahathat and Wat Pho. Otherwise you can get there via bus 3, 6, 15, 19, 30, 32, 33, 39, 53, 59, 64 and 70, or A/C bus 39. The closest Express Boat pier is Tha Maharaj, a good five to 10 minute walk from the museum.

Jim Thompson's House

This site is often overlooked by travellers passing through Bangkok but is definitely worth a visit. Jim Thompson is widely recognised as the man responsible for the revitalisation of a waning Thai silk industry. Born in the United States in 1906, he first visited Thailand while working for the US Overseas Secret Service -- the predecessor of the CIA -- towards the end of World War II. His operation was curtailed by the end of the war, so Thompson moved back to the US but was soon drawn back here. He began working tirelessly to promote Thai silk overseas and eventually his efforts paid off as the ailing industry sprang back into life.

In 1959, Jim Thompson's unique house was completed. It is constructed from six different traditional teak houses appropriated from as far away as Ayutthaya. Interestingly, the walls have been installed in reverse.

The house is decorated with ancient relics from throughout Thailand and works of art from Burma, China and Cambodia. It also boasts exquisite paintings and intricately carved furniture. Keep an eye out for the cat-shaped urinal and a mouse house.

Jim Thompson disappeared in Malaysia's Cameron Highlands in 1967 under mysterious circumstances and his body has never been found. His sister was murdered in the US the same year. Various theories have been suggested about Thompson's death, including a CIA plot, kidnapping by guerrillas, being run down by a truck or mauled by tigers.

A shop in the grounds sells a huge array of Jim Thompson souvenirs including some picturesque maps and postcards.

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Soi Kasem San 2, Rama I Road
office@jimthompson.com
http://www.jimthompsonhouse.com/
Opening Hours: Daily 09:00-16:00
How to get there: The house is across from the National Stadium. Watch out for touts on the soi who will insist the museum is closed. Buses 11, 15, 47, 48, 73, 93, 113, 204 and A/C 1 and 8 go by the soi entrance.

Suan Pakkard Palace

Suan Pakkard Palace is comprised of fine traditional wooden Thai houses, bristling with antiques, traditional furnishings, artworks and an intriguing collection of khon masks.

Although set on busy Sri Ayutthaya Road, the gardens offer a fairly tranquil retreat from the Bangkok streets. It's just a short taxi ride from Jim Thompson's house and makes a good stop after a visit to his house.

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Sri Ayutthaya Road
Opening Hours: Daily 09:00-16:00
How to get there: Ordinary buses 14, 17, 38, 77 and A/C 13 go past the entrance on Sri Ayutthaya Road.

Royal Barges National Museum

The royal barges are used only rarely, when the royal family takes part in stunning processions down the Chao Phraya River. Although the procession consists of 26 boats, only a handful of these are designated as royal with the others performing the roles of escorts.

Each royal barge is intricately decorated with coloured paint and metallic and reflective inlays, sporting a different mythological figure or decoration at its head. The barges stretch for up to 50m in length, requiring over 60 crew per boat. The largest barge, Suphannahong, is used by the King himself. The sheds which contain the barges also hold somewhat shabby displays of other items such as the Royal Lean Pillow and Royal Footrest.

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Khlong Bangkok Noi
Opening Hours: Daily 09:00-17:00
How to get there: The barges are located a short distance up Khlong Bangkok Noi, off the Chao Phraya River. Catch a ferry to the Railway Station pier which is just opposite Phra Arthit near Khao San Road. Follow the road up to the first intersection, Arun Amarin Road, turn right and walk across the bridge for the canal, exiting at the stairs on the right. The entrance to the museum is inconspicuous, recognisable by a small sign and a couple of food vendors. The path meanders for 300m around local houses, but just keep going and follow the signs that pop up.

Lak Muang (City Pillar)

Considered to be Bangkok's foundation stone and the home of the city spirit, this pillar's origins stretch back to 1782 when King Rama I erected a small wooden post. Since then the post has been replaced with sturdier material, and has become a focal point for considerable festivities and offerings by those who want to keep the city's guardian spirit well pleased.

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Sanam Luang
Opening Hours: Daily 24/7
How to get there: Head to the southern end of Sanam Luang, close to Wat Phra Kaew. The nearest express boat pier is Tha Chang.

The National Gallery

The National Gallery, housing both contemporary and traditional Thai art, is home to the best public collection in the kingdom. The contemporary art section is on the ground floor in rooms to the left and right after the entrance. The artwork shows influences from cubism, impressionism and a touch of surrealism. The rooms upstairs are dedicated to traditional Thai art, most being tempura paintings in the Bangkok style of the 19th century and the late Ayutthaya style of the 17th century.

The rooms across the courtyard are used for temporary exhibitions of which there are usually one or two at any given time.

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Chao Fa Road
Opening Hours: Wed-Sun 09:00-16:00
How to get there: The closest pier is Tha Athit. It is within easy walking distance of Khao San Road.

Kamthieng House

This charming 120-year-old house was originally built in Chiang Mai but was disassembled, shipped to Bangkok and carefully pieced together again in 1964. Now it houses a museum aimed at preserving and displaying elements of northern Thai culture such as folk arts, costumes and tools.

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131 Soi 21 Sukhumvit Road
info@siam-society.org
http://www.siam-society.org/
Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 09:00-17:00
How to get there: Kamthieng House is a five-minute walk from Asok BTS.

Museum of the Department of Forensic Medicine

Ghouls and doctors, this is your thing: a room stuffed with all sorts of body parts and gruesome medical curiosities. The main attractions are the mummified bodies of infamous Thai murderers, but the shelves are also chock full of skulls marred by bullets, aborted foetuses and an array of limbs and parts that are quite unidentifiable.

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Siriraj Hospital
How to get there: The hospital is on the Chao Phraya River, between the Railway Station pier and Tha Phrannok. The museum is at the northern end of a dozen buildings huddled on the grounds. It's a bit tricky to find -- ask directions.

Si Maha Mariamman Temple

This Hindu temple features intricately decorated roofs and loads of colourful statues of Hindu deities and idols. The main temple which opens to three decorated shrines has a stark white entrance with pillars made of mythical creatures and lotus leaves.

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Intersection of Silom and Pan Roads
Opening Hours: Daily
How to get there: The temple is on the corner of Pan and Silom Roads, about a 10-15 minute walk from Saladaeng BTS.

Dusit Zoo

Escape Bangkok for a few hours and see how Thais like their zoos: with festivity and fun spread between the cages. Housed here are a respectable number of mammals, reptiles and birds -- elephants, giraffes, a few tigers, bears, crocodiles, gibbons and other banana eaters, eagles and possums.

Living conditions are more miserable than those in many western zoos. The management has been trying to shift towards housing more smaller (cheaper) animals rather than the big (expensive) ones. But the biggies are the crowd-pullers, so the elephants and tigers are still there, doing their sad tricks to please the masses.

When you've seen the animals, take a river ride, jump on a merry-go-round or enjoy some live music. Weekends are usually very busy.

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Ratchawithi Road
http://www.zoothailand.org/
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-18:00
How to get there: Buses 18 and 108 run past the entrance, while bus 8 runs nearby.

Snake Farm (Pasteur Institute)

Get your reptilian fix here: glass-encased displays of live and deadly snakes, a small museum with the skins of enormous carcasses and an ampitheatre where visitors -- frequently tour groups -- can view snake handlers tease the snakes and audience. Snake venoms are collected here for anti-venom, vaccines and for scientific work. In Southeast Asia alone, over 2,500 people die from snake bites every year.

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Next to Chulalongkorn Hospital Rama IV Road
Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 08:30-16:00; Sat,Sun and public holidays 08:30-12:00
How to get there: The snake farm is in the scientific division of the Thai Red Cross Society in the Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute, next to Chulalongkorn Hospital. When you enter the gate, follow the road around to the left, then straight ahead. The closest BTS is Saladaeng from where it is about a 15-minute walk.

Chao Mae Tuptim (Phallic Shrine)

Surrounded by enough sculpted penises to make a sex shop envious, this shrine is tucked under a huge tree. Offerings, including penises as well as jasmine and lotus, are left to placate the spirit living there by women hoping to conceive.

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Behind Nai Lert Park Hotel, Wireless Road
Opening Hours: Daily
How to get there: The shrine is located at the back of the Nai Lert Park Hotel (formerly the Hilton). Walk into the main driveway, past the lobby and continue straight ahead on ground level. Take a left through the carpark and when you get to the other end, it's on the right.

Sanam Luang

This park to the north of Wat Phra Kaew is traditionally used on royal occasions such as the ploughing ceremony, when the king officially signals the commencement of the rice growing seasons. In early March 1996, the Queen Mother was cremated here after lying in state at the Royal Palace for eight months.

In times long past, particularly nasty criminals were lined up and shot here, and the Chatuchak Weekend Market was later originally held on these grounds. Nowadays kite flying is about the most exciting pastime going on.

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Hemmed in by Ratchadamnoen Nai, Na Phra That and Na Phra Lan Roads
How to get there: Plenty of buses circle the park while the closest Chao Phraya Express stop is Tha Maharaj.

Princess Mother Memorial Park

This lovely little park, standing on land donated by a local couple in Thonburi, is located near the community where the Princess Mother resided as a child. The house she lived in was demolished long ago but a replica is there. The cool park also features an eight-metre long sculpture to mark the good works undertaken by the Princess Mother.

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Soi 3 Somdet Chao Phraya Road, Khlong San
Opening Hours: Garden Daily 06:00-18:00; Museum Daily 09:00-16:00
How to get there: Access is easiest from the pier out the front of the Kuen Oo shrine. The regular express boats don't stop here. Catch the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat or hire a long-tail. The park is behind and just to the left of the shrine.

Benchasiri Park

This veritable oasis in the midst of Sukhumvit's relentless noise and pollution was originally the site of the Meteorology Department but was converted to a park to commemorate the 60th birthday of Queen Sirikit in 1992. Unfortunately an array of huge old trees were cut down as they didn't fit with the landscapers plans. Today the park is quite lush in a landscaped kind of way and is popular with office workers on lunch breaks and the masses of aerobics fans who stream in for the free early morning and afternoon classes.

Although only a fraction of Lumpini Park's size, it's still a welcome relief to have a green spot in this grey part of the city. Benchasiri's not worth a trip across the city to visit, but if you're in the area, it's worth taking a stroll around. Or bop along to an aerobics class and work off some of that kaeng khiao warn kai.

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Sukhumvit Road between sois 22 and 24
Opening Hours: Daily 05:00-20:00
How to get there: The park entrance is right beside Phrom Phong BTS and the Emporium shopping complex.

Mr Kukrit's House

Thailand's prime minister in 1974-75, Kukrit was one of the kingdom's few truly intellectual leaders and this stunning wooden house bears witness to a life lived simply but smartly. Brim-full of fine art treasures, the house features an interesting library and bonsai trees in the well-tended garden.

If you are heading down to the immigration office, you don't have to head far out of your way to make a stop here.

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19 Soi Phra Pint, Sathorn Tai Road (off Soi Suan Phlu)
Opening Hours: Sat-Sun and official holidays 10:00-17:00
How to get there: Heading down Soi Suan Phlu from Sathorn, Soi Phra Pint runs off to the left. It's a 10-minute walk from the corner to the house, which is well sign-posted.

Kuan Oo Shrine

This small Chinese temple on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River is unremarkable but warrants a quick stop if you're visiting the Princess Mother Memorial Park just behind it.

According to legend, King Taksin would visit this shrine to worship before he embarked on his war campaigns. He's also said to have kept stables nearby.


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Opening Hours: Daily
How to get there: Access is easiest from a pier out the front. The regular express boats don't stop here, so catch the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat or hire a long-tail.

The Giant Swing

The Giant Swing is... precisely that. It was once used as part of a religious festival, during which swingers would soar to huge heights trying to capture a bag of gold suspended in the air. The king eventually banned it being used when he decided too many fatalities had occurred.

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In front of Wat Suthat, Bamrung Muang Road
Opening Hours: Daily 24/7
How to get there: The swing is out the front of Wat Suthat, a 10-minute walk from the Democracy Monument.

Wat Chai Chana Songkhram

Chao Phraya Bodindecha, a very religious chief commander during the reign of King Rama III, decided to build this mid-sized wat after returning from victorious campaigns against the Vietnamese and Khmers in 1848. Its name means War Victory but locals prefer to call it Wat Teuk, after the concrete building (teuk in Thai) he built for himself and the monks.

There's not too much to see here, save a couple of chedis out back and the automatic bell ringer at your top left as you enter.

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Mahachak Road
How to get there: Turn up Mahachak Road from Yaowarat Road and take the first left, which leads straight to the wat compound.

Wat Chakrawat

Wat Chakrawat -- or the crocodile wat, as it should be known -- boasts three live crocodiles along with a stuffed specimen. Supposedly brought here as strays, the three live beasts sit in two separate ponds to the left as you enter the main temple. The croc in the left pond is at least three metres long while the two in the right are each around two metres long. The stuffed croc who sits between the two ponds is an original member of the gang.

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Chakrawat Road
How to get there: Walk down Chakrawat Road and turn left about 100m south of Sampaeng Lane. You'll enter a large carpark and the wat is to your left.

Boonsamakan Vegetarian Hall

This small, tricky-to-find hall is worth a look both during the vegetarian festival when it is a highlight and the rest of the year as well. The hall features some intriguing wood carvings, particularly some three-dimensional work on the upstairs front area along with the usual dragons and phoenixes. Inside there is more ornate carving and some strikingly altars. Opposite the hall is a stage area used for performances during the vegetarian festival.

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Off Anuwong Road
How to get there: Walk down Ratchawong Road, past Sampaeng Lane, till you reach a small soi that runs off to your right. The Thonburi Textile Mills will be just ahead on the other side of the road. Walk down the soi to the end and you'll be at the hall. Alternatively, continue down Ratchawong Road till you reach Anuwong Road, turn left and take the second tiny soi on your right. Follow it to the end and turn left.

Talaat Kao

This 200-year-old wet market is the oldest in Chinatown and is worth an early morning visit. Browse the colourful fresh produce, squirming seafood and freshly-culled meats. Watch out for the porters wheeling massive bags of intestines and fish guts between stalls.

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Itsaranuphap Road
How to get there: Start down Itsaranuphap Road from Yaowarat and the entrance is on your left.

Talaat Mai

The only way to distinguish this from its older relative Talaat Kao is probably its size -- bigger -- and the layer of slime on the ground -- thinner. It's another photogenic wet market that's particularly captivating in the early morning.

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Between Plaeng Nam and Itsaranuphap Roads
How to get there: Access to the market is from either Plaeng Nam or Itsaranuphap Roads.

Wat Leng Noi Yi

Wat Leng Noi Yi, or the Dragon Flower Temple, dates back to 1871 and is one of the most important sites for the Chinese in Thailand. The original temple was built using donations scraped together from the residents along Sampaeng Lane.

Entering from Charoen Krung Road, note the nine-storey gateway at the entrance, built in 1973 to honour King Rama IX's 6th-cycle birthday.
The interior of the temple is divided into several separate sections, all of which the visitor is allowed to wander through, although no photography is allowed.

A variety of activities take place here, including fortune telling, merit-making and regular services, along with worshipping at the Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian altars.

Keep an eye out for Chinese Thais making funeral offerings of burning paper cut-outs of houses, cars, refrigerators and other symbols of financial success. By burning these, the deceased are ensured of having their creature comforts in the afterlife.

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Charoen Krung Road
How to get there: Wat Leng Noi Yi is on Charoen Krung Road, near its intersection with Soi Itsaranuphap.

Sampaeng Lane

This narrow alley is almost always packed with eager shoppers avidly searching for bargain hairbands, ghost masks, sandals, toys, sewing kits and other paraphernalia. Towards Pahurat the goods tend towards items you may actually use, such as clothing and lots of fabric -- but by the time most get this far into the market, their eyes have glazed over and their sole goal is to escape. The crowds are made worse by the occasional irritating motorcyclist and the odd porter delivering bolts of fabric.

More interesting shopping and wandering can be done along Soi Itsaranuphap, where it remains possible to breath.

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Sampaeng Lane
How to get there: Sampaeng Lane runs from Songwat Road to the east through to Chakraphet Road in the west, parallel to Yaowarat Road.

Pahurat Cloth Market

This large covered market sells a wide range of clothing and fabrics. Prices are very reasonable. A large selection of Indian goods is also available in the area.

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Between Chakraphet and Triphet Roads

Sikh temple - Sri Guru Singh Sabah

The entrance is difficult to spot from Chakraphet Road, but those who make the effort will be rewarded by seeing a side of Thailand most don't even know exists. You can ask one of the men hanging around the lobby if you can go upstairs. Both men and women receive an orange cloth to cover their heads and shoes come off. The sixth floor is the main prayer area, and has a copy of Sikhism's holy book, the Sri Guru Granth Sahib, on a flower-filled altar. The world's 23 million Sikhs treat the text with the same reverence as a guru, or small god. The next floor up is full of reading rooms where you can usually find Sikhs busy reciting the 1530-page tome. Travellers are welcome to share in a free vegetarian breakfast on the second floor on every day from .

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555 Chakraphet Road, Pahurat
Opening Hours: Daily 07:00-09:00

Soi Pradit

A busy market strip, Soi Pradit is packed with a wide variety of food and general produce stalls along with a few streetside eateries and flower stalls at the Silom end.

Also on the soi is Mirasuddeen Mosque, a small building dating from the early 1990s, and a wet market, smaller than Bangrak Market on Charoen Krung, but very accessible.

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Silom Soi Pradit (Soi 20)
How to get there: This narrow soi runs north from Silom almost opposite Si Maha Mariamman Temple through to Surawong Road.

Neilson Hays Library

This charming building was built to honour the memory of Jennie Neilson Hays. Ms Hays was a Protestant missionary first sent to Phetburi in 1881, who was President of the Library Association from 1914 until 1920 when she died suddenly of suspected cholera.

Today you enter the library through its back door -- the front entrance, which opens into the rotunda, is no longer in use as the space is used as an art gallery with regularly changing exhibitions.

Although the days of no bookstores in Bangkok have passed, the library still offers an excellent range of books and is staffed by volunteers.



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195 Surawong Rd

Pridi Banomyang Institute

This interestingly-designed building is home to a few small rooms serving as art galleries and offices. The primary focus of the place is to view sporadically rotating art by local and international artists and to provoke brainy discussions. They hold semi-regular screenings of eclectic films based around a changing theme (war or technology, for example) in the main theatre. It's a sincere attempt to educate the public about art in a city that historically doesn't care much about it. Email or phone Nonglak, who will be happy to provide information on what's currently on display.

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Between Thong Lo 1 and 3
banomyong_inst@yahoo.com

Muay Thai

Muay Thai or kick-boxing is the world-renowned national sport of Thailand. Spend an evening here to witness several rounds of competitors thwacking each other in a colourful display of testosterone.

While many kick boxers train by kicking truck tyres or heavy boxing mats, the Thais train by kicking bamboo, killing all nerve endings in their shins and so making them formidable fighting machines. Thai boxing matches also tend to push beyond human limits with bouts continuing well after the towel would have been thrown in during Western boxing matches.

Lumpini Boxing Stadium holds matches every Tuesday and Friday at 7.00 pm to 11.00 pm, and on Saturdays from 5.00 pm to 8.00 pm, then 8.30 pm to 12.00 pm. The cost is 230B, 460B and 920B for ringside seats. There are heaps of food stalls and a couple of Thai restaurants out the front to sustain you through the spectacle.

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Rama IV, behind Lumpini Park
How to get there: Lumpini Stadium is a ten-minute walk from Saladaeng BTS.