Things to do in Sangkhlaburi

Mon village and the floating rafts

This friendly village, known by locals as Fang Mon, is located at the far side of the wooden bridge and can be visited in conjunction with a visit to Wat Wang Wiwaekaram (or Wat Mon). Spread out across the far bank of the lake, the village has been formed by Mon refugees fleeing oppression in Burma. These people have now become a vital part of the Sangkhlaburi community. There's not much happening here, but you'll likely receive welcoming smiles (and a few stares) as you wander through the dirt roads. Behind the village on the way to the wat you'll pass a small market selling goods mainly for the local residents -- though keep an eye out for some Burmese products. While the hairbrushes and chequered sarongs likely won't hold much interest for tourists, they're worth checking out for the bizarrely dated Burmese models on the package. If you plan on buying anything, you will get a larger choice at the Burmese souvenir market near Wat Wiwaekaram. The most direct way to visit the village is via the wooden bridge or by boat.

Bridge to the Mon Village

A wooden footbridge made completely by hand links the Mon village to the main town of Sangkhlaburi. It's not hard to spot that it was handmade, as it looks almost like the thin planks were nailed together in a completely random pattern. In the wet season the water level almost reaches the top of the bridge, and has in the past completely covered it. In the dry season, about two thirds of the bridge's structure are visible, revealing the nerve-wracking web of bamboo poles that hold the bridge up. While it would be pushing it to describe it as a sight in itself, this bridge is certainly more interesting than that one over in Kanchanaburi. The bridge makes for particularly scenic viewing in the early morning as the Mon tread its length on their way to work with all their belongings on their heads. You are no longer allowed to ride motorcycles over the bridge, but bicycles are permitted.

Wat Wang Wiwekaram (Wat Mon)

Seen from Sangkhlaburi, Wat Wang Wiweakaram looks almost unreal -- a glittering temple rising out of a jungle canopy. It only looks more unusual up close, consisting of a gold-painted beehive carved with geometric patterns, each one filled with statues of the Buddha. Known also known as Wat Mon due to it being home to predominantly Mon monks, this is the most prominent feature on the far bank of the lake. Thais travel the country in their pilgrimage to meet with the head monk, and it's possible for you to meet him if you ask one of the friendly monks to organise it. He will bless you with holy water and provide you with advice on anything you want.

The main feature of the compound is the brilliant wat sporting sparkling stainless steel columns, with teak doors on each side featuring detailed relief sculptures of Buddha's life, all within a moat filled with fish. Other buildings within the compound also have sculptured doors and window shutters, but with simpler designs. Part of the same temple, but some 400m further down the road, is the gold-topped chedi, Luang Phaw Utama, which has been modelled in the style of the Mahabodhi stupa of Bodhgaya, India. Upon closer inspection, you will notice more than 100 freestanding metal Buddha images of varying sizes and positions placed around the outside of the spire. Within the chedi is the largest marble Buddha image in Thailand. In front of the wat is a busy souvenir market specialising in woodcarvings and Burmese crafts.

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2km out of town
How to get there: The wat is around 2km from the centre of town if you go via the wooden bridge or 5km if you go via the concrete bridge. By the wooden bridge, follow the road after the bridge until you reach a T junction. Turn left then continue until the intersection where you turn right for the wat and left for the chedi. From the centre of town a motorbike taxi should cost about 20B to 30B.

Explore the Lake

When Vajiralongkorn Lake was created by the construction of the same-named dam at Thong Pha Phum, the old town on Sangkhlaburi was submerged. During the dry season, when the waters drop sufficiently, it is possible to view some of the ruins that remain standing -- primarily a couple of buildings belonging to the original wat, including the naga staircase, bell tower, bot and viharn. Elsewhere in the immediate area there are a collection of other remains, but in very poor condition. When the water level is very low, you can see the remains of the original Three Pagodas just before the wat (those at the border are not the original trio). On the other side of the lake you can see the remains of the old wooden bridge and some minor roadworks. Also keep an eye out for trapped fishing nets among the many dead trees. Morning by the lakeside, surrounded by dead trees and shrouded in mist, can be quite spooky. When the lake is high all that can be seen of old Sangkhlaburi is the very top of the bell tower and you'll whiz straight over the dead trees without knowing they are there. The ruins can be visited by boat, and you have a number of options for getting out there. P Guesthouse rents out sturdy wooden canoes, and with a few hours paddling, you can explore many of the lake's hidden corners. You can also arrange a trip by long tail boat, either with boat owners at the base of the old bridge, or by the lake's edge near Wat Wang Wiwekaram (take the trail down to the water from beside the wat's bell tower). Rates vary according to your bargaining ability, but for a fair sized boat figure on 200-300B for an hour or two. If you fancy spending an evening floating on the lake, contact Kanda, at (034) 595 396, or http://www.songgarianoi.com/, who runs a raft house. If you are able to rustle a group together, it is quite affordable. Rates start at around 1,000B for a raft that will comfortably seat 8-10 people.

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Under the old bridge, Sangkhlaburi