Things to do in Pai

Public swimming pool and gym

Just over the bridge heading out of town are a public swimming pool and gymnasium. Entrance is 50B for use of the pool and gym for a day, with multiple entries allowed. The huge green pool is quite well-looked after, in a pleasant setting with lounge chairs. Bamboo mats to lie on are also supplied. The gym is unsophisticated, housing some free weights, bicycles and a couple of cardio machines. Coke and packets of chips are sold, but no other food.

More details

Opening Hours: 10:00-18:00 daily

Elephant rides

At present five elephant camps are huddled down near the hot springs. Most are very small operations so don't expect the large, highly-organised camps you see outside Chiang Mai at Mae Sa and Mae Taeng. Some people prefer the less touristy aspect but then again some bemoan the lack of organisation and facilities.

Each of these offer rides of varying lengths, which can often be done in conjunction with bamboo rafting, or as an added attraction as part of a trek or local day trip. Bear in mind that many people find that an hour and a half is plenty of time to experience an elephant, as the slow pace can get a little tedious after a while, and they're not the most comfortable ride in town.

An elephant carries two people on a wooden seat on its back, and walks at a slow pace through narrow paths in the jungle or by the river. Many animals have been trained to bathe with their passengers, can play football, pick things up and pass them to their riders, and will greet you (if you have food for them!). Some can even thank you in Thai afterwards.

Joy Camp has a good reputation though again there isn't a lot to choose between them all in terms of price and ride.

Joy Camp: T:(081) 881 3923, cciamchit @ hotmail.com. 300B p/p per hour, minimum two, or 500B p/p for two hours.

Tubing

The Pai River is quite pretty, and one relaxing way to travel along it is on an inner tube. A few places around town can organise tube rental, often combined with transport. Generally, a tuk tuk will take you up river by a couple of kilometres, you get in the water and float downstream back into town. Tube hire costs around 50B for half a day and combined with transport should cost from 80B upwards, depending on how far you go. Take care during rainy season as the flow can be very strong. Mind your bum on the bottom during dry season!

Rafting

Bamboo Rafting
A relaxing way to see the river and local countryside, bamboo rafting takes you at a slow pace downriver on rafts made of bamboo poles lashed together. Between two and four passengers travel with a guide who propels the raft along with a long pole. Guides can be cheeky, splashing water on their passengers and generally making fun. Even without splashing, it's highly likely that you will get wet up to the ankles at the very least. Luggage should be left behind, and any valuables should be securely sealed up in plastic bags. Bamboo rafting is often offered as an extra in combination with elephant riding on a trek or day tour. The cost varies from place to place, and depends on the size of the rafts, how many passengers and how long the journey lasts, among other factors. Generally you can expect to pay between 400 and 800B for a raft for an hour or two, or about 200B per person as an extra option on a trekking trip. Ask in any travel or trekking agency, otherwise most guesthouses can organise a trip for you.

White Water Rafting
White water rafting between Pai and Mae Hong Son has become very popular, and there are two alternative routes that are run by a number of specialist travel agents around town. Lasting either one full day or two days and one night, the trips go down the Khong and Pai Rivers, or the Pai River only.

The Pai River trip takes two days, and has class five rapids during the rainy season from June to the end of January. Some companies don't have appropriate equipment to handle the low water levels during the dry season, and do not run.

The Khong and Pai River trip is shorter, and can be done as either a one- or two-day journey. From mid-May to the end of February the water level is lower and the rapids are flatter. The experience involves rafting on large inflatable rubber rafts, some paddling, and a number of white water rapids of differing levels.

The trips have a guide, and start with a safety demonstration of paddling techniques and how to manage the rapids. The paddling is broken up by picnics on the side of the river, and visits to hot springs and waterfalls. The scenery is gorgeous, and takes you through the stunning Pai Gorges. Overnight accommodation varies from company to company, but will usually be either camping in private tents or a bamboo hut where everyone sleeps dormitory style on the floor with foam mattresses, sleeping bags and mosquito nets. Food is cooked by the guides, usually a couple of dishes to choose from including barbecued meat, stir-fried vegetables or a mild curry dish. Vegetarian food is available by prior request.

Both trips start in Pai and finish 15 minutes from Mae Hong Son, where transport delivers you to your place of choice, whether than be in Mae Hong Son or if you would like to return to Pai.

Back-Trax, opposite Aya, have a good reputation and offer one- or two-day trips with a night's camping. Pai Adventure is also very close to Aya. Both are run by Westerners so no language problems either! February to May water levels can get pretty low, so don't expect much white water excitement during the dry season. On the other hand, in full-on rainy season across August and September things can get a bit hairy and it has been known for rafting trips to be put on hold if there's too much water.

Back-Trax: (053) 699 739, (081) 035 2253. backtraxinpai @ yahoo.com
Pai Adventure: (053) 699 385, (089) 953 4848. www.thailandpai.net. pairafting @ hotmail.com.

Other distractions

Among other options are ATV-riding, rock-climbing, kayaking, horse-riding, mountain-biking and mini-golfing. Phu Pai to the north of town has ATV vehicles, as does Jeeper ATV to the south (near Pai Phaya Resort, just past Coffee in Love). Phu Pai also offers horse riding, across country in the wet or up Pai river itself during dry season. The well-organised Pai Adventure guys, mentioned in the rafting section, also offer rock-climbing, mountain-biking and kayaking, so go along for a chat and take your pick.

Last but not least is Pai's only crazy golf course! A nine-hole course with cafe and snack bar (Secret Garden Cafe) is located -- well -- in the middle of nowhere. Head over the bridge, turn left and head on for a couple of kilometres, then turn right and head for a couple more -- it is well signposted. (Open 10:00 to 18:00, closed Mondays.)
Phu Pai: T: (053) 065 111-3

Trekking and hiking in Pai

Walking straight out of Pai town gives you only fairly limited options as a lot of the surrounding area is unattractive open farmland and you have a fair distance to cover before getting into the forests and hills. Walking along the river bank is better, especially once you've got out of town and away from the bungalows a bit. Mae Yen Waterfall is one of the better hikes doable from town. Head over the bridge, take the second left and it's around 7km through some of the closest hills to town, so you'll soon leave the road and be walking up a pleasant wooded valley where the path crisscrosses the Mae Yen Stream. Allow 3 or 4 hrs round trip.

Another scenic area for a stroll, though you might need a lift down there, is Pai Canyon. Just before reaching the WW2 bridge and the turn off for the hot springs, on the road to Chiang Mai is a sign on the right indicating a dirt track to follow taking you a short distance to the 'Canyon'. It's a very scenic and unusual site, being in effect a miniature Grand Canyon. It's worth a few pix and particularly good if you're into bird watching. (Our resident Travelfish bird expert reports three different kinds of woodpecker in the same tree -- exceptional!)

If you're staying out of town then you're guesthouse or resort will certainly be able provide you with suggested walks in the area, otherwise you're limited to getting transport into the hills to better hiking areas or signing up for an organised trek. Again most guesthouses will be more than happy to provide you with trekking info and there are plenty of agents and trekking operators around town as well. Bear in mind that though there are plenty of hill tribe villages in the nearby hills and lots of scenic countryside, tourists have been trekking Pai for some 30 years now and you have no chance of finding any rarely visited villages nor getting even remotely off-the-beaten-track. Indeed most organised treks out of Pai will usually be done in the Pang Mapha or Wiang Haeng areas, so maybe it's better to just get up that way yourself and book a trek up there directly to save some money.

As far as organised trekking goes, a number of registered trekking agencies in Pai offer options for seeing the local countryside on foot, and getting to hilltribe villages and scenic spots that are otherwise inaccessible. Most popular are three-day, two-night or two-day, one-night trips that take in local Lisu, Lahu and Karen villages and a waterfall or hot spring.

Generally you need a minimum of two people for a departure, but if you have enough time, most agencies will advertise for other participants. Prices vary depending on the number of people going, the distance travelled and the activities covered but as a rule expect to pay around 700B per day.

Most agencies will also offer bamboo rafting and elephant riding as an optional extra to tack on to your trek for around 200B per person per activity.

If you want to spend more time in the region, or go further than the average trekker, it is usually possible to organise your own trekking trip. There's not really so much reason to trek for more than five to seven days.

Highly recommended is Mr Chart. He is a freelance guide who has gained a steady reputation in Pai and operates out of Bamboo House. Treks with Mr Chart will not only bring you to secluded hill tribe communities, but will also educate you on jungle survival and you may find yourself eating things you never thought possible! Treks run at 800B/day, and are usually spread over two to three days, with scheduled visits to a Lisu village the first day, and a jungle camp the second. Contact Mr Chart by phone on (089) 953 3605 or see his website at http://www.trekpai.com/

Back Trax can organise treks of one to three days or longer. Everything is flexible. Their guides are very friendly and speak very good English, and some speak other local languages. At least 15% of the cost of your trip goes toward supporting and developing the villages they visit, in addition to a fee paid for your stay, and they are more than happy for you to carry in much-needed blankets, medicine, clothes, and school supplies to donate. The guides will help you distribute these responsibly to the head of the village, a school teacher or local doctor. Their office is on Chaisongkhram Road. T:(053) 699 739, (081) 035 2253. backtraxinpai @ yahoo.com

Pai Adventure offer a wide range of combination trekking, rafting and elephant riding packages. Contact them by phone T: (053) 699 385, (089) 953 4848. http://www.thailandpai.net. pairafting @ hotmail.com.

Waterfalls

Other than for Mae Yen, you're really going to need transport to get to the few waterfalls around, most quite pretty, none really spectacular -- any guesthouse will provide directions. Mae Paeng is a popular one -- follow the road past Santichong KMT village to the end of the tarmac then it's a short walk away. The less visited Pom Bok is reached by turning right on the road out of town towards Chiang Mai.

Villages surrounding Pai

Most of the surrounding villages are quite modern now, including the hill tribe ones, but some have pleasant Shan-style wats worth a peek. Wat Nam Hoo in Nam Hoo village northwest out of town is a picturesque one with an unusual Buddha statue.

If you follow the road through the village you'll reach the old KMT village of Santichong, which was settled in the 1950s by fleeing Republican army units taking refuge over the border after their defeat by Mao's communist forces. (A string of these villages loop across northern Thailand. US-backed Thailand was more than happy to accept these staunchly anti-communist and well-trained troops as extra protection for their northern frontier, even if it meant turning a blind eye to their opium activities used to fund themselves.) Even now it still has something of a South Chinese feel to it, with low Yunnanese-style houses scattered across a steep hillside, but it's a lot tamer than it was even only 20 or 25 years ago. That's when opium was still the mainstay of the village and old Chinese soldiers still wandered the streets in their old Republican uniforms, automatic rifles in hand. Today it's quite popular with Thai tourists, with a large tasting area for tea (which has replaced opium as an important crop) and a souvenir market at the village entrance.

Just past Santichong is a Lisu village. While many of the village women still wear traditional dress, the houses are much more Thai than Lisu. For any more authentic villages you're going to have to either head for Pang Mapha or walk a long way into the hills.

Hot springs

Sulphurous hot springs emerge out of the ground a few kilometres southeast of Pai. They're nothing to write home about but you can go down to the Pai Hot Springs Spa Resort and pay a few baht to bathe in the waters. Maybe nice during cold season but watch out for your silver jewellery turning black!

Thai cooking lessons

Taking a leaf out of Chiang Mai's book, several spots in Pai now offer Thai cooking classes -- one-day, two-day or more if you're keen. They all run fairly similar courses at similar prices -- what makes or breaks it is generally going to be the teacher and the set up of the school, so pop along, meet the teacher and have a peak at the place before choosing. Most of these courses are fun and instructive and provide you with a book of recipes (including suggested alternatives for products that may be hard to find at home).

Taking the Let's Wok school as an example, a day course costs 750B and a two-day course 1,500B. You'll have a choice of six curries to cook as well as salads, soups and desserts and all your faves will be there. Let's Wok have a limit of six people per group, a good plus.

More details
Down the alley between Baan Pizza and Cafe Paille
tee-dye@hotmail.com

Massage and massage courses

Apart from the ubiquitous massage establishments around town, Mr. Jan's -- see accommodation -- offers massage courses as well. Sunshine Massage School from Chiang Mai now offers courses in Pai at the Spa Exotic Home Resort. Call (053) 249 594 and see http://www.sunshine-massage-school.com for details. A 12-day beginner course costs 35,900B. With regards to massage done to you rather than by you, none are particularly recommended more than others. Any can be a bit hit and miss depending upon which masseuses are working that day, whether they are on form or not, or indeed what kind of massage you prefer, but most are okay and all are straight massages -- no funny business, this is Pai!

If you're looking for more esoteric courses and treatments you could check out the Thai-English-run Divine, which organises meditation, card readings, reiki and reiki energy activation among other options. Contact Julie on T:(089) 998 2031.