Things to do in Nakhon Si Thammarat

Nakhon Si Thammarat walking tour

Many of the tourist sights are located in the older part of Nakhon Si Thammarat. Check out the TAT office near the park where the friendly staff can provide you with helpful information. Make sure to pick up a copy of their free map. There are some interesting handicraft stores in the small street behind the TAT office and on Tha Chang Rd. Nakhon Si Thammarat specializes in high quality handicrafts made with gold and white motifs on black niello. Products include necklaces, rings, bracelets, bowls and trays.

Continue down Ratchadamnoen Rd and cross over the canal to see the remnants of the city wall and the old northern gate. There is a 100m stretch of the impressive city rampart remaining, dating originally back to the 14th Century. This wall, once stretching over 400m from east to west and over 2km from north to south, reveals the size and importance of Nakhon Si Thammarat during that time.

Walking south for another kilometre and you'll reach Wat Phra Mahathat, which is the most famous landmark in Nakhon Si Thammarat. This wat is particularly impressive because it is one of the most prestigious wats south of Bangkok. The beautiful courtyard area contains a 77m high chedi dating back to 555 AD. It was restored during the Srivijaya Period. The marbled courtyard contains numerous smaller chedis, Buddha filled cloisters and a 12m whale skeleton. There is also an interesting museum housed in a beautiful old temple building. For only 20B, an incredible range of objects are on display. Unfortunately, there are no explanations in English and very few in Thai so it becomes a bewildering array of religious items, weaponry, household objects, pottery and everything else under the sun strewn around or piled up in dingy corners collecting dust. This is a crazy museum comparable to an ancient Egyptian tomb which has been untouched for thousands of years.

Continue down Ratchadamnoen Rd for another kilometre or so and you will reach a second, larger but more conventional museum; the Nakhon Si Thammarat National Museum. It is more organised than the wat museum. This museum contains an equally large number of exhibits from various historical periods plus a large folklore and handicraft section. The museum was opened in 1974 and its exhibits artifacts from the provinces of Nakhon Si Thammarat, Surat Thani, Chumphon and Phattalung. The museum is open Wed to Sun from 09:00 to 16:00 and admission is 30B. Contact the museum at (075) 34 1075 for more information.

The older area of Nakhon Si Thammarat is packed with other interesting wats and temples.

Shadow Puppetry

Both Nakhon Si Thammarat and Phattalung are well known for their shadow puppetry called nang thalung. The puppets are cut from buffalo hide and then they are carved into intricate characters that come from Thai drama stories. The shows are becoming increasingly rare, but puppet master Suchart Subsin has been working overtime to help keep the ancient folk art alive.

Suchart Subsin was born on July 2, 1938. He learned the art of making the shadow puppets as well as performing while growing up in the Tha Sala district. As both a shadow puppet performer and maker, he has become famous in the south of Thailand. He has received many awards (the TAT's best cultural and tourist attraction) and accolades (the award for the most outstanding performance) for his extraordinary abilities. In 1985, Subsin performed for His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

Subsin has opened up his home on 10/18 Si Thammarat Rd, Soi 3, to the public. It is about a ten minute walk from Wat Phra Mahathat. He has set up a beautiful museum dedicated to the history of shadow puppetry. The museum contains shadow puppets from throughout the world. Suchart Subsin enjoys putting on a show so do not pass up the opportunity to see him perform live. For only 50B, he will put on a twenty minute show which includes backstage access to see him at work. This is a culturally stimulating experience that should not be missed.

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10/18 Si Thammarat Rd, Soi 3

Khao Luang National Park

Khao Luang National Park is 579 sq km of jungle covered mountains containing spectacular waterfalls and challenging hiking. The highlight is Khao Luang Mountain, southern Thailand's highest peak at 1,835 m (see the Khiriwong section for details on climbing the peak). The park has an unfortunate history. In 1988, a huge landslide killed over 300 people. This disaster served as a wake up call to the dangers of deforestation and logging and clear cutting have been reduced in the majority of the park. The Thai government has progressively encouraged the local community to preserve this national treasure before it disappears.

The park contains some spectacular scenery, a mixture of limestone outcrops and granite massifs with a correspondingly varied flora including tropical rainforest, tropical deciduous and bamboo forest containing the giant Mahasadam tree ferns and the famous Rafflesia flower. Locals claim that the rare Rafflesia flower, supposedly only in Kaeng Krachan National Park, can also be found here. The Mahasadam fern is older than the dinosaurs and it flourishes here. Deer, tapir and wild cats are amongst the countless mammals found in the park, although it is too small to support populations of the larger mammals. Several easy hikes from the park headquarters can be done, and the staff may be able to show you around if the price is right. The best time to visit is from January to July.

Khao Luang National Park headquarters and the tourist centre are located by Karom Waterfall. The National Park Office can be contacted at (075) 35 4839. The tourist centre has a good map of the park and information in English. A moderate amount of English is spoken, there is a small cafe and there are two large wooden guesthouses (three bedrooms and two bathrooms each) available for 700B per night. Up to 15 people can sleep comfortably. Tent sites are also available, but make sure to bring your own gear. Do not be afraid to bargain especially if the park is empty.

Karom Waterfall is 300m from the park office and it is very popular with Thais on the weekends. Water magnificently cascades down 1,000m, over a series of cliffs and boulder strewn slopes, creating 19 different levels with some great bathing spots. A nature trail traverses the lower seven levels of the waterfall. Only these lower levels are open to the public. The seventh level, Nan Dat Fa, is the most beautiful. Watch out for the voracious leeches. The waterfall is surrounded by lush jungle, giant tree ferns and lots of bird and butterfly life.

Phromlok Waterfall is even more spectacular than Karom Waterfall. This waterfall in Phrom Khiri, is extremely popular during the weekend. Take a refreshing dip in the beautiful pool at the base of the waterfall. Only four levels are open to the public. The first level is especially beautiful due to the Mahasadam ferns.

Ai Khiao Waterfall (or Nai Khiao Waterfall) is strikingly pleasing to the eye. Surrounded by dense jungle, the waterfall contains nine levels that are covered by betel gardens. Khiao Waterfall provides one of the best views of Khao Luang Mountain and the neighbouring peaks.

Krung Ching Waterfall is the most beautiful and impressive waterfall in Khao Luang National Park. An image of the waterfall is portrayed on the back of the 1,000 baht note. The name comes from a local palm that is native to the area. There is a spectacular 100m drop in the waterfall that creates a misty rain that blankets the falls below.

It is possible to go rafting on the Klong Klai River. Rubber boats are available to rent at the Krung Ching Administration Office near Krung Ching Waterfall. The cost is 250 - 350B per person. Call the office at (075) 30 9004 or 01 677 3112 to check out the conditions.

Hong Cave is worth exploring and it's conveniently situated just before Krung Ching Waterfall. A stream runs through the centre of the cave. Uniquely shaped stalagmites and stalactites thrive in the cave. It is only possible to access the cave by wading through water. Make sure to bring a flashlight.

There is a national park office at Krung Ching Waterfall that can be contacted at (075) 309 6445. Six guesthouses varying in size are available to rent. One bedroom and one bathroom guesthouses for four people cost 250B per night. Two bedroom and two bathroom guesthouses for eight people cost 500B per night. Three bedroom and two bathroom guesthouses for 20 people cost 1,500B per night. Tent sites are also available, but make sure to bring your own gear.

How to get there:
Khao Luang National Park headquarters and Karom Waterfall are situated in Lan Saka District, 29km from Nakhon Si Thammarat. From Nakhon Si Thammarat take a songthaew to Route 4016. At the 9km marker turn left onto Route 4015 and continue for 20km. The entrance to Khao Luang National Park is 1km ahead on the right. Negotiate the price beforehand.

Phromlok Waterfall is in Tambon Phromlok about 25km from Nakhon Si Thammarat. Take a songthaew from Nakhon Si Thammarat to Route 4016. At km 20 take a left onto Route 4132 and continue for 5km to the waterfall.

Ai Khiao Waterfall is located about 30km away from Nakhon Si Thammarat. Take a songthaew from Nakhon Si Thammarat to Route 4016. At km 26 take a left and continue for 3km to the waterfall.

Krung Ching Waterfall and Hong Cave are located 70km from Nakhon Si Thammarat. Take a songthaew from Nakhon Si Thammarat to Route 4016 past Amphoe Prom Khiri. Turn left onto Route 4140. At Amphoe Nopphitam turn right onto Route 4186 and continue straight to the waterfall.

For more information about Khao Luang National Park and the surrounding areas contact the TAT office at (075) 346 5156. The best idea is to obtain directions in Thai from the TAT office.

Ban Khiriwong

This charming village is nestled at the foot of the mountains by a rocky stream and is the departure point for the ascent of Khao Luang Mountain. The village is surrounded by fruit orchards and there are some pleasant hikes around the village and also some waterfalls within walking distance.

Khao Luang rises up from little over sea-level at Khiriwong to 1,835m, making it a spectacular sight. The peak is often covered in clouds. This was one of the last hideouts of the CPT guerrillas and it is hard to believe that only 15 years ago, this was the scene of fierce fighting. The Thai government forces pounded the CPT tunnel systems on the peak with fighter bombers, to no avail until the guerrillas finally gave up of there own accord following an amnesty offer.

It takes at least two days to hike to the peak and back and you will definitely need a guide. Prices for guides and porters are negotiable. Expect to pay a minimum of 300B per day for each service. English speaking guides are difficult to find. The hiking is fairly tough, but the scenery is stunning. Pack some warm clothing because it can get cool in the evenings.

A good place to try to organise a trek and an interesting spot to stay is at Mr Nui's house on the edge of the village by the river. Mr Nui has four basic bamboo huts for 120B per night and will provide breakfast and dinner if desired. Washing is done in the river. Mr Nui is a very friendly guy and organises Khiriwong's Nascent Ecotourism Project, but unfortunately he does not speak English. Fortunately, his son Art speaks English so there should be no problems communicating. Ask in the village for Mr Nui and someone will point out his house. His house is 1km out of the village and it can be reached by motorbike taxi. The TAT office in Nakhon Si Thammarat can help to sort things out with Mr. Nui if you want to spend the night.

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How to get there: A songthaew leaves Yao Rd (07:00 - 16:00) in Nakhon Si Thammarat. Take Route 4016 and at the 9km marker turn left onto Route 4015. Go past Amphoe Lan Saka and turn right at Ban Khiriwong. Continue straight for 9km until reaching the Ban Khiriwong Community Centre. Contact the centre at (075) 53 3113 for more information.