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Region: Hanoi And Surrounds> Province: Hanoi>Location: Hanoi

Hanoi sights and attractions

Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum - Checking in on Uncle Ho

Ba Dinh Square, Hung Vuong St, Hanoi

Description
The number one thing to do in Hanoi would have to be checking in on Uncle Ho.

Ho Chi Minh's body is kept in state in a huge mausoleum at Ba Dinh Square, on Hung Vuong Street past the end of Dien Bien Phu Street. Some days, the lines can be quite long, and you'll only get a minute or so with Bac Ho. And, yes, his preserved body is right there on display, looking a bit waxy, as preserved bodies do.

This is not what Ho Chi Minh wanted -- he requested that he be cremated and his ashes spread in three areas in North, Central and South Vietnam. A grave plot was, to his mind, a waste of land that might be productively used for agriculture.

But it was exactly that kind of earnest devotion to his country that made it impossible for his successors to honour his wishes. The cult of personality surrounding Ho Chi Minh was their best bet for keeping the country united after the war, and to preserve that, his body had to be preserved as well. The massive, austere, Romanesque structure is modelled after the one in Moscow where V.I. Lenin is on display. He, too, had requested only a modest burial.

This sight is Vietnam's holiest of holies -- perhaps this goes without saying, but a reverential and respectful attitude is obligatory. There's an elaborate list of rules as you enter which you should try to adhere to, and if you get a case of the giggles, bite the inside of your cheek.

Vietnam Military History Museum - Boys and their toys

28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi
btisqsvn@bt.vnn.vn


Description
Along Dien Bien Phu Street, towards Uncle Ho's house, the Army Museum has a comprehensive and stimulating collection of war relics charting Vietnam's long struggle for liberation. If you're only going to see one war museum in Vietnam (and your opportunities will be endless) this should be it.

The museum is arranged in a series of galleries that start with the period of Chinese colonisation, through to the French period, and then on to the American War and more recent skirmishes. There is a lot to see, so it makes sense to pace yourself, or decide what's really of interest to you. If you're mainly interested in the American War, you may have to skip through some of the earlier exhibits, or risk being too overloaded with information to really appreciate it.

The displays are generally well done and sometimes fascinating with more than the usual collection of guns, spears, and ammo, as well as a good deal of photojournalism and historical background provided in English (history as seen through the eyes of the Vietnamese government, naturally, but still interesting). And you may also want to save some energy for the inventive display outside.

Towards the rear of the museum a huge pyramid has been put together by an artist out of the wreckage of a B-52, F-111 and a French transport plane -- all of which were shot down. At the centre is a billboard-sized photographic blow up of a female Viet Cong soldier dragging the wing of an American plane across the beach -- it's sort of 'pop art' meets 'socialist realism' and the whole effect is graphically dynamic and strangely resonant.

Other tools of war are more traditionally displayed: a mig fighter, a surface-to-air missile and plenty of spent ordnance. Alongside the Military Museum there is a 59m high ancient flag tower that marks what was once the tallest point in Hanoi. From here, there are unbeatable panoramic views of the city. Watch your head on the climb up though. The flag tower was once part of the Hanoi Citadel built in 1812.

As you leave the museum, take a look across the street, where there's a park featuring a monumental statue of V.I. Lenin. Not a whole lot of those left around anymore...

Opening Hours: 08:00 to 11:30 and 13:00 to 16:30, closed Mon and Fri

Temple of Literature - Vietnam's first university

Quoc Tu Giang St, Hanoi

Description
The Temple of Literature (Van Mieu - Quoc Tu Giam) is an obligatory stop on any sightseeing tour of Hanoi. It's usually well-packed with visitors, but never so much that there isn't room to stroll around. It's a good site, but if you're not much for culture, it needn't be near the top of your list of things to do.

This is the site of Vietnam's first national university. The 'temple' moniker attests to how inextricably linked learning and religion were back in the year 1070 when it was built by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong. But, in this case, it was a temple dedicated to the cult of Confucius, breaking the monopoly over education previously held by Buddhism. At almost 1,000 years old, it's one of the few remaining examples of traditional Vietnamese architecture still standing in Hanoi. For contemporary Vietnamese, it functions as a shrine to Confucius himself, who's influence is still very much a part of Vietnamese culture, and it serves as a testament to Vietnam's long history of striving for educational excellence. It was initially reserved for Mandarins and high-ranking civil servants, but later outstanding students of no particular rank were also educated here.

The Temple of Literature is set on a large, rectangular complex encompassing five walled courtyards connected by gateways, among green gardens and man-made reflecting pools.

The first area of interest is the Well of Heavenly Clarity beside which there are 82 tortoise-carrying stellae, (there were originally 117), which list the names, places of birth and achievements of graduate students who accomplished exceptional results during the Le Dynasty. One can't fail to notice that the names on some of the stellae have been scratched out -- these are scholars who subsequently met with some sort of disgrace or royal disapproval, and were expunged from the record.

Each of the buildings had a specific purpose and meaning, though some have been given over to exhibits charting the history of the Temple. The pamphlet that is handed out to visitors on arrival is fairly helpful, and blissfully free of grammatical errors (befitting a sight dedicated to education) but in order to really get a sense of what you're looking at, a guide is highly recommended. We booked an excellent English-speaking guide at the gate for 80,000 VND (regardless of the size of the group) plus a tip at the end.

Some of the temple is comparatively new -- the housing in the back was lost in a fire a few decades ago, and the current structures are of more modern vintage in the spirit of the old buildings. There is also a statue dedicated to Chu Van An (after whom at least one street in every Vietnamese city is named) who is considered the greatest scholar in Vietnam's history -- the bronze likeness dates back to only 2003.

At the rear of the gardens there is a large sanctuary possessing an impressive Confucian statue, and in the forecourt of this sanctuary traditional music is played when a sufficient crowd gathers.

The complex backs onto Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, but the entrance is on Quoc Tu Giang Street. The temple makes for a good sanctuary from both the touts and the traffic.

Opening Hours: 08:00 to 17:00 daily

St Joseph's Cathedral - Hanoi's neo-gothic highlight

40 Nha Chung St, Hanoi

Description
This Catholic cathedral was completed in 1887, by Monseigneur Pigneau de Behaine. It was closed in 1975 upon reunification of Vietnam, and was not reopened until 1985. The neo-gothic style of the cathedral looks somewhat out of place in the busy and typically Vietnamese streets of Hanoi, although it is built in what is considered to be the French quarter of the city. The church itself has a striking presence with its two large square towers and can be visited any day of the week, making a quiet escape from the noisy Hanoi streets.

If you happen to be in Hanoi for Christmas, this is the place to visit. The courtyard of the church becomes a huge gathering point and takes on a real carnival atmosphere, with fairy floss vendors and the like.

Opening Hours: Daily 05:00 to 07:00 and 17:00 to 21:00

Vietnam National Fine Arts Museum - Lovely building

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hanoi
http://www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn/


Description
This is one sight that's not usually on the tour group route. While it's certainly not a world-class art museum by any stretch, it's one of the best in Vietnam and a visit here will provide a good deal of insight into Vietnamese culture and history.

Just about the most stunning artwork at the National Fine Arts Museum is the large, three-storey colonial style building itself. This is the main building, straight across from the entrance, which contains the prime attractions. Exhibits are arranged more-or-less chronologically from bottom to top. There's more here than you can soak up in one visit, so we recommend giving the place a once-over first and then picking a few areas to focus on.

The artworks include ancient relics up to 10,000 years old on the lower floors, as well as sculpture and paintings from before 1800. The visual arts are more heavily represented on the upper floors than are the plastic arts, but some sculptures are positioned here and there. All the exhibits are generally well-captioned, though look closely -- some works are reproductions (and not very good ones at that) and are labelled as such. Others seemed to us to be obvious reproductions, but weren't labelled as such. Every gallery features a flip book with detailed information in English, French, Japanese and Chinese.

The highlights are really to be found on the first floor. The first chamber houses the truly ancient archaeological finds. Many are just old bits and pieces:-- axe and spear heads, drum heads, and small figurative pieces, but they are impressively old and fascinatingly intricate in design. Rubbings from brass drum heads are displayed, but to see the drums themselves, you'll have to go to the History Museum, which is a good idea in any case. Surrounding this chamber is some exceptional work from Vietnam's dynastic period.

Gallery five in the back houses some exquisite offerings from the Le dynasties, including two large renderings of the Bodhisattva and the 'thousand eyed, thousand armed' goddess Guan Yin -- these are stock figures at many Buddhist temples, but the ones here represent the apogee of the form in Vietnam, and are mind-bogglingly intricate in design. There is also a 'Buddha Entering Nirvana' or 'Reclining Buddha' here, made of lacquered wood, that is so sensuously feminine in design, one wonders if the artist were really trying to communicate the bliss of nirvana or some other kind of bliss.

Adjacent to gallery five, in gallery eight, is some of the best art Vietnam has ever produced. The Tay Son dynasty didn't last long, towards the end of the 1700s, but the realistic, figurative sculpture from this period is outstanding. Larger than life and made of lacquered wood, each has an eerie presence and a strong personality. They are all supposed to be monks, but it's suspected that the artists of the period were using the pretext of religious art to express something about human nature and the plight of the common people.

The upper floors of the gallery are less inspiring -- much of Vietnamese art seems to imitate European trends, though more authentically Asian works on rice paper, such as 'A Carp Playing with the Moon,' offer a more stirring aesthetic experience. By the time the Communist era begins, all bets are off as socialist realism takes over, and the art becomes about as meaningful as a mailbox (though, some of it shows considerable technique and is pretty to look at). The real Vietnamese contemporary art museum is actually the Ho Chi Minh Museum.

The three-story annex to the left as you enter houses temporary exhibits, folk art, decorative arts, and ceramics. Much of what is on display here is strikingly similar to what you'd see being sold on the street or decorating contemporary Vietnamese homes.

There is a store on premises where reproductions can be purchased, and also, if you're a serious art collector, much of the art on display can be purchased by special arrangement.

Opening Hours: 08:30 to 21:00 Wed to Sat, 17:00 on other days, closed Monday and Vietnamese Holidays

Hoan Kiem Lake - The centrepiece of Hanoi

Central Hanoi

Description
Hoan Kiem Lake, Lake of the Restored Sword, forms the centrepiece of Hanoi. The name of the lake comes from a legend in which Emperor Le Loi, worried about advancing Chinese, was boating on the lake when a giant tortoise rose from the murky waters. The tortoise presented him with a magical sword with which he could strike down all foes. The tortoise made Le Loi promise to bring back the sword upon the defeat of the Chinese. True to his word, the tortoise rose again to take back the sword following the success of Le Loi's campaign, and since then the lake has been known as the Lake of the Restored Sword. A solitary pagoda on an islet to the west side of the lake has been built in the tortoise's honour. At the northern end of the lake sits Ngoc Son Pagoda.

The pleasant surroundings of the lake make for a perfect break to munch out on a baguette or finish off a book. There are park benches all around the lake, though the east side is nicer and slightly quieter. Around sunset it is difficult to find a free seat as young couples congregate to spend time in each other's arms. Early in the morning the lakeside is a popular venue for tai chi and exercise.

Ngoc Son Pagoda - Tourist hotspot

Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi

Description
At the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake, just down the street from the Water Puppet Theatre, sits Ngoc Son Pagoda, or Pagoda of the Jade Mountain. It's on an islet accessed via an old red wooden bridge, the Bridge of the Rising Sun.

The site has been used as a temple since ancient times, but most of the current structures were built during the 19th century. It offers an eclectic variety of forefathers for Vietnamese to pay homage to: the pagoda honours Confucian and Taoist notables, as well as Van Xuong, the spirit of the intellectuals, and national hero Tran Hung Dao, among others. At the entrance to the bridge are two monuments constructed in 1864, one representing an inkbrush (a tall tower) and the other an inkwell (a hollow rock held by three frogs). In the early morning of the festival of Doan Ngo, held on the fifth day of the fifth month, the shadow of the brush is positioned at the centre of the inkwell.

There's often a steady river of tourists streaming in and out of the pagoda, though luckily quite a few come to light incense and offer prayers, so it's not just a tourist attraction.

Ho Chi Minh Museum - Certainly worth seeing

South of Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum

Description
Looking at the massive, white, lotus-shaped structure that houses the Ho Chi Minh Museum's collection, one might wonder how so much real estate could be dedicated to one man.

Airport-style greeting aside, the first layer of exhibits is much what you'd expect -- a photo-history of Uncle Ho's life with brief but informative captions in French, English and Vietnamese. From there, nothing is left to do but wander up to the fourth floor, where one is greeted by a monumental, gilded statue of the man of the hour, but at the same time, there are already signs that this is not a typical Vietnamese museum -- like, what is that huge cloud-shaped thingy doing behind Ho Chi Minh, and why is his head encircled by the sun like a halo? It makes sense, in a way, but isn't it all a little over-the-top, even for Vietnam?

As you proceed up the steps to the right to begin a tour of the upper gallery, the situation doesn't become any clearer. At least not immediately. The visitor is led through a series of exhibits, which aren't really museum exhibits at all -- they're art installations, in the tradition of the 1970s art scene.

Back then, they might have called them 'happenings,' and it's startling (if slightly embarrassing) to find a place in Vietnam where they are actually still happening. Some of the exhibits are just plain incomprehensible -- the tram-line, human-powered funicular display, even after carefully studying the adjacent materials, is still a mystery to us.

Each exhibit focuses on one of eight themes -- human hope and achievement versus the degradations of fascism, or Ho Chi Minh's hideout in Cao Bang Cave rendered as a human brain. It's not really a museum about Ho Chi Minh at all -- it's post-modernism influenced by pop art, with a heavy dose of socialist realism. But, in the tradition of Soviet collectivist art, none of the creators are credited by name.

The whole thing is utterly anachronistic, and sort of mind-blowing, which is to say, something you absolutely must see to believe. It's hard to imagine what contemporary Vietnamese who visit here would make of the place. Small children may subsequently suffer from very confusing dreams for years to come.

The explanation for how this odd museum came into being is quite simple, though it takes a heavy dose of art history to understand it. After the war with the United States ended in 1975, the art world was well into the post-modernist era. The museum was made possible by Vietnam's strongest post-war ally, the Soviet Union, with its own history of artistic expression and its own take on modernity. Planning began in 1977, though construction only got under way in 1985 and the museum opened on the anniversary of Ho Chi Minh's birth in 1990. The resultant museum is actually a culmination and a synthesis of various revolutionary and anarchistic artistic movements that would require an advanced degree in modern art to properly unravel. All of which movements were dead and buried by the time the museum actually opened.

Strewn throughout the exhibits, as if the surrounding art actually provided meaningful context, are rather prosaic if historically important documents preserved in plexi-glass flips books to be perused by visitors. Most of the documents are in French and we saw no serious perusing going on during our visit. People were distracted by, oh, maybe the giant pineapple surrounded by yet-more-massive bananas.

So, definitely stop in to the happening in progress and be there while you're in Vietnam. The Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi is not uniquely Vietnamese; it's flat out unique.

Opening Hours: Daily: 08:00-12:00 14:00-16:00

National Museum of Vietnamese History - Outstanding

1 Trang Tien St, French Quarter, Hanoi

Description
The National Museum of Vietnamese History is housed in a magnificent example of Indochinese architecture, which was until 1910 the French Consulate and the residence of the governor general. The building was also home to the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient (EFEO), during which time it became a museum to exhibit EFEO finds. Over time the building deteriorated, and it was not until the early 1930s, following a seven-year renovation, that what you can see now was realised. The entrance gives on to an impressive two storey rotunda with exhibits all around and in many galleries to the rear.

The contents are as fascinating as the building. The ground floor traces Vietnam's ancient history, from the first neolithic finds through to the mid 15th century. Some items date back as far as 10,000 BC and feature more than just the requisite pottery shards and axe heads. The jewellery, tools and household items archaeologists have unearthed -- along with human and animal remains -- paint a compelling picture of the people who inhabited the region long ago, and provide a sense of how they are tied to Vietnam's modern inhabitants. There's also an excellent selection of bronze drums dating back as far as 500 BC. Ancient military history is also touched on -- corny dioramas of famous battles aside, some of the wooden spikes used by Tran Hung Dao to swamp the Mongolian fleet in 1288 are on display.

The upstairs of the rotunda has a small, though very impressive collection of Champa pieces -- if you missed the Champa Museum in Da Nang, now is your chance.The rest of the second floor goes from the 15th century up to the 20th. There are some familiar sights here in terms of temple statuary and pearl-inlay furniture, but some of the very intricate woodwork, and a statue of Guan Yin, the 'thousand armed, thousand eyed' manifestation of the Bodhisattva that's second only to the one in the Fine Arts Museum, and the upstairs section.

Other unusual exhibitions include a scroll from the 1920s adorned with the characters for Long Life written 100 different ways. There's also a sculpture garden on the west side of the building where some old pieces have been left to suffer the ravages of acid rain, including a stellae bearing the oldest epitaph in Southeast Asia, dating from the 3rd century AD.

There's a reasonable charge for photographing the exhibits, and the price goes up if you want them to open the displays to eliminate the glare, but special prices are given to 'those in need' so maybe ask and try to look needy. Guided tours are available on request.

Opening Hours: 08:00-11:30 and 13:30-16:30 Tues - Sun

West Lake - Hanoi's largest

Northwest Hanoi

Description
Also known as Ho Tay or the Lake of Mist, this large lake covers a sizeable swath of northwest Hanoi. Legend states that the lake was formed by the footprint of a golden calf who was running towards the sound of a giant bell.

In its heyday, the lake was lined by royal palaces, however they're now mostly gone -- replaced by high-end housing and luxury hotels. If you have the time, it is a pleasant enough walk to the lake. From the Old Quarter, take Phan Ding Phung Street to see some of Hanoi's swishest villas -- and while you're in the area, pop into Quan Thanh pagoda and Tran Quoc pagoda before taking a swan boat ride on the lake.

One Pillar Pagoda - Originally built in 1049

Beside the Ho Chi Minh museum

Description
This pagoda is another popular stop on the tour group trail -- the masses line up to climb the steps to the small shrine within the gazebo-like structure, but for most western visitors it may be enough to take a glance at it as they leave the Ho Chi Minh Museum -- the pagoda is located to the right of the main entrance.

Originally built in 1049 of wood, the pagoda was vandalised and burned by the French in 1954 as they retreated from Hanoi -- only to be rebuilt the following year. The pagoda was built by Emperor Ly Thai To during the Ly Dynasty. Legend states that the Emperor had a dream that he was given a son by the goddess of mercy, Quan An, while seated on a lotus flower. Soon afterwards, the Emperor married a peasant girl and had a son. The Emperor built the pagoda to honour the goddess, and it contains a statue of her and many sculptures of lotus flowers. Built over a lotus pond, the One Pillar Pagoda is extremely popular with childless couples and is also believed to have miraculous healing powers. During the summer, the surrounding pond is covered in lotus blossoms.

Opening Hours: Daily 08:30 to 11:30, 13:00 to 16:30

Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton) - Absolutely worth a visit

1 Hoa Lu, (Hai Ba Trung Street)

Description
When it comes to Vietnam's complicated journey through the 20th century, few surviving historical vestiges attest as vividly and pointedly as Hoa Lo.

The French simply called it Maison Centrale, and apparently razed a local craft village when they picked out the site for this, the largest of the French Indochinese prisons. Construction was completed in 1896, and the city has grown around it to such an extent that it is now conveniently located near the town centre.

Its original purpose was to function as the end of the assembly line for the colonial system of jurisprudence, detaining Vietnamese 'criminals'. More often than not, this meant anti-colonial revolutionaries, otherwise known to the Vietnamese as 'revered heroes and martyrs'. It was the inmates who dubbed it Hoa Lo, which means 'fiery furnace'.

Surviving Hoa Lo -- or better yet, escaping -- gave a Viet Minh cadre powerful credentials, and more than a few went on to become central figures in the Communist Party. The museum's curators focus primarily on this period of the prison's history, but after the French were ousted in 1954 it was used to incarcerate a new set of Vietnamese 'criminals': counter-revolutionaries opposed to the growing influence of the party.

Then, during the American War, a whole new group of 'liberators', that is, despicable imperialist 'bandits', were detained in the form of downed American pilots when it served as a prisoner of war camp. The Vietnamese still maintain that American prisoners were well-treated, but published memoirs by former inmates speak of torture, murder, medical neglect, and being fed food contaminated with faeces. The treatment was so bad here that some observers still maintain it constitutes a war crime., The prisoners fought back by giving it the sarcastic nickname, 'The Hanoi Hilton'. For some of them, surviving Hoa Lo boosted their credentials as well: one became the first US ambassador to Vietnam, and another is US Senator and (at time of writing) presumptive Republican presidential nominee John McCain.

After 1975, it was once again used to jail Vietnamese who spoke out against the Communist government. This continued until at least the early 1990s when the government realised they were wasting a prime piece of downtown real estate on a prison that was easy to escape from. Most of it was destroyed and sold to developers, and a small portion was preserved as a memorial to everything that happened in the prison before 1954.

When the Hilton Corporation finally opened a hotel in Hanoi 1999, they had to give it the awkward name 'The Hilton Hanoi Opera' to avoid tapping into any unsavoury associations.

Despite the selective curatorial slant, the prison is absolutely worth seeing. Be prepared for some fairly grim sights, including dank, dismal cells, iron stocks, upsetting photographs and, in the last 'gallery,' the chilling presence of a guillotine used to execute some untold number of inmates. A few of the cells feature relatively life-like, slightly creepy renderings of suffering prisoners. Other displays show the narrow sewer grates that a large number of prisoners squeezed through to escape. One propaganda-filled room is devoted to the POW period during the American war, but as for that, and the other uses to which the prison was put, don't expect to come way well-educated.

Opening Hours: 08:00-11:30 & 13:00-16:30 Tue - Sun

Museum of the Vietnamese Revolution - Worth a look if you are in the area

216 Tran Quang Khai St, French Quarter, Hanoi

Description
If you're a sucker for endless (well 29 to be exact) rooms of Communist Party communications, black and white photos of Vietnamese revolutionary heroes, old flags and a good dose of war snaps, then this is the place for you. Established in January 1959, the more than 3,000 exhibits on display here trace the development of the Vietnamese revolution from its very early inception through to final victory.

The museum follows three main strands: the struggle for independence (1858-1945), the war of resistance (1945-1975) and Vietnam on the road to recovery (1975 to present). Unless you have a specific interest in the revolution, the museum probably isn't worth traipsing all the way across town to visit, but with the outstanding National Museum of Vietnamese History just across the road, you may as well pop in if you are already in the area.

Opening Hours: Daily 08:00-11:45 & 13:30-16:15

Ancient House at 87 Ma May St - A taste of Hanoi's vanishing heritage

87 Ma May St, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Description
Dating back to the 19th century, this very special house is a stunning example of the type of architecture that prevailed throughout Hanoi before the concrete egg-carton style took over. If you plan on visiting Hoi An, or have already done so, this is a traders house in very much the same style, but if this is your only chance to see one, it's the only one we know of that remains in Hanoi, and it's a great one to see. Initially the house had only one family in residence, but from 1954 to 1999 five families lived in the house. Renovated in 1999, the house is still an excellent glimpse into Hanoi's rapidly vanishing architectural heritage. On site there is a small bookstore which has four walking tour leaflets for sale (15,000 VND apiece) -- they are well worth buying and following.

Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges - Span the Red River

Eastern Hanoi

Description
These two bridges are the only land access points to Hanoi for many peasants living on the east side of the Red River. Long Bien Bridge is a massive iron structure built by the French in the late 1800s, and has suffered at the hands of war and neglect over the years. It was once known as Doumer Bridge, after the French governor-general Paul Doumer, who was responsible for setting up the French administration, and implementing huge public works projects. In 1983 Chuong Duong Bridge was opened, becoming the main thoroughfare for traffic to the north.

Long Bien Bridge is still used, but only for trains, pedestrians, bicycles and some motorcycles. The bridge is quite a sight in the mornings and afternoons as peasants from the outlying areas queue up to cross it, carrying their produce to and from the markets. It is easy to walk across and the views down onto passing boat traffic and the view of Hanoi's riverfront stretch are very pleasing.

Vietnam Museum of Ethnography - A must see

Nguyen Van Huyen St, Western Hanoi

Description
While this museum is somewhat inconveniently located, it is absolutely worth making the effort to reach. If you're planning on going trekking in the mountains to the north and northwest of Hanoi, this museum should be considered an essential research stop. The displays, labelled in English throughout, are both comprehensive and interesting -- covering all the main minority groups you're likely to come across on a trek. There are plentiful audiovisual displays along with more typical museum fare.

Outside and to the rear of the museum are some fine examples of minority group housing. Back inside, be sure to check out Mr Pham Dang Uy's bicycle -- loaded down with 800 wooden and bamboo fishtraps! Other interesting exhibits include Giarai funereal statues like what visitors to Gia Lai province in Vietnam or Ratanakiri in Cambodia, may have seen. Also on display: shaman masks, a recreation of the Sapa market and a ruler to measure pigs. We'd been looking for one of those. Certainly worth checking out. Easily reached with the number 14 bus followed by a 10-minute walk down Nguyen Van Huyen Street.

Opening Hours: 08:30-17:30 Tue-Sun

Ho Chi Minh's House on Stilts - Relaxing

North of Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum

Description
Just to the north of Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum sits the presidential palace and Ho Chi Minh's bungalow (often referred to as his House on Stilts). Set in a stretch of mango-filled parkland around a small pond, this is a refreshing spot to take a wander around, and Ho Chi Minh's bungalow is indeed very nice. Built of polished wood, the bungalow has a light and airy feel to it, or as the brochure reads Uncle Ho's House on Stilts is a symbol of his simplicity and gentleness. There are only some rooms here, but all of them are full of wind, light and fragrance from the garden...

Opening Hours: Daily 08:00 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 16:00

The Vietnamese Women's Museum - Sort of closed, work in progress

36 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hanoi
boatangpnvn@yahoo.com.vn


Description
As of January 2007, the Women's Museum has been undergoing a very extensive expansion and renovation, and that was still the case in early 2008. Many of the more interesting exhibits are, unfortunately, closed to visitors for the time being. What's left are two small exhibits -- one on the first floor, honouring the historical domestic role of Vietnamese women, and another, on the third floor, honouring the business achievements of contemporary Vietnamese women. The latter is entirely in Vietnamese.

Best to consider the museum closed. A visit here will make a lot more sense when the full compliment of exhibits is back online, and, apparently, there's much more in store than there was before. Projected completion is some time in 2008.

Opening Hours: 8:00 to 16:30, closed Mondays

Thanh Long Water Puppet Theatre (Nha Hat Mua Roi Thang Long) - Mixed opinions

Near Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi
thanglong.wpt@ftp.vn
http://www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org/


Description
This is the most popular tourist attraction in Hanoi, and opinions are divided on whether or not to follow the crowds. Some describe it as an hour of wonderment and magic. Others describe it as 15 minutes of interesting puppetry followed by an interminable period of squirming in their seat and eyeing the exit door. It's certainly great for kids, though you might want to park your teens in a gaming cafe while you take the younger ones. And, to its credit, despite its popularity, ticket prices are still reasonable, even when you factor in the surcharge for taking pictures and video. Tickets sometimes sell out for several days in advance during peak times, so try to buy them at least a day in advance.

Opening Hours: Ticket Office: 08:30 to 21:15, daily

Bach Ma Temple - Very pretty -- and convenient

76 Hang Buom, Hanoi

Description
Bach Ma Temple has many virtues to recommend it as the place to get your 'temple creds' if you don't have them yet. First, it's very conveniently located, on the corner of Hang Buom and Hang Giay, in the heart of the Old Quarter -- it's right next to the steak joints on Hang Giay Street. Chances are you'll find yourself passing by anyway as you go for a stroll, and you might as well stop in for a peek. Second, it's a beautiful, well-maintained temple that serves as a good example of what small temples in Vietnam are all about. And finally, it's still very actively used for worship -- note the extended hours on the 1st and 15th of each lunar month to accommodate those who regularly come with offerings to burn incense and pray. A guide can't be hired on site so if you're keen on the whole low-down, ask at a hotel or travel agency.

Opening Hours: 07:00 to 11:00 and 14:00 to 17:00. On the 1st and 15th of every lunar month: 07:00 to 21:00

Hanoi Opera House (Nha Hat Lon) - Wide variety of shows

1 Trang Tien Street, Hanoi
thienvinhcompany@yahoo.com
http://www.hanghieumy.com


Description
Hanoi's majestic old Opera House, located in the French Quarter near the posh hotels, is for more than just an Opera House. A sample of performances here in early 2008 included: Spanish guitar, Russian Ballet, a symphony orchestra, nights of traditional Vietnamese song and drama, a marionette show and even a hair fashion show -- though western operas are also occasionally mounted here. Shows are only scheduled 10 to 12 days each month, so plan ahead.

Unfortunately, their website is only in Vietnamese, and there doesn't seem to be a schedule online, so just show up at the Opera House where the schedule is posted, or try calling. Tickets will be delivered to your hotel for free. Prices vary -- most shows are between 120,000 and 200,000 VND per ticket depending on quality of seating, and special performances may cost as much as 500,000 VND.

Botanical Gardens - Escape Hanoi without leaving

3 Hoang Hoa Tham, Hanoi

Description
Located just above the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex northwest of the Old Quarter, the sprawling Botanical Gardens provide an excellent respite from the hew and cry of Hanoi's busy streets. It's well landscaped, featuring ample foliage to peep at and some cages with exotic birds and monkeys that we sort of wish weren't even there, but this is Vietnam, and every park has to have a monkey cage. Ample opening hours mean you can find a time to beat the heat in the summer, and you can't beat the price. The entrance is on the northern side of the park, so to get here, find Hung Vuong Street, head north, and take a left on Hoang Hoa Tham. The entrance is in the middle of the park on the left.

Opening Hours: Daily: 07:00 to 22:00

Thu Le Park and Zoo - A zoo within a zoo

Bach Thu Le Street, Hanoi

Description
Some think Hanoi is a zoo, but it also has one. Priced to please the people, it's full of Vietnamese on any given day, with a cheerful holiday air about it that makes for a good place to go if you're getting harried by the tourist scene in town. Relax, you're on vacation!

It's more park than zoo, with beautiful grounds edging a lake. The animal displays are strong in the monkey department, but the chained-up elephants looked pretty miserable. It's the place to be for a wander around and to sample some snacks from the vendors. There are a number of amusement park rides oriented towards children which are free for the price of admission, and swan boats can be hired for a paddle on the lake. A new addition -- for 40,000 VND, they'll stuff two of you in a big, plastic, inflatable bubble and throw you into the lake. You don't have to be a kid to enjoy that one. It's 4 km south of the Old Quarter, and reachable via bus number 9.

Opening Hours: Daily: 06:00 to 22:00