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Region: Northern Laos> Province: Luang Prabang> Location: Luang Prabang

Getting There and Away

Bus

Luang Prabang has two main bus stations: one for traffic to and from the north, called Kiew Lot Sai Nuan, and one for traffic to and from the south, called Naluang. Some buses occasionally transit through the opposite station to which you’d expect, and consequently there are some Vientiane-bound buses leaving from the northern station and buses to Luang Nam Tha departing from the southern station. To get to and from either station catch a tuk tuk for around 5,000 kip per person, no matter how many are going. Late at night or if there are only a few passengers, the price will rise to 10,000 kip. If you tell your driver your ultimate destination, he should know which station to get you to.

Most buses leave at around their scheduled departure time and will pick up more passengers along the way. Get to the station early as buses will be filled to capacity, and the first on gets the best seats. Leave a bag of non-valuable belongings on your seat to reserve it if you don’t want to sit there until the bus leaves. Those buses which are arriving from one town on transit to another can arrive already full. It is possible to get your money back on a ticket in this situation if you make it politely clear to the bus station staff that you won’t go because the bus is full, and you’ll depart the next day. It is best to do this while the bus is still at the station.

An alternative to the public system is to go by minibus to some of the major tourist destinations. Tickets can be booked at all travel agents and some guesthouses and internet cafes. The journeys are much shorter by minibus than on a public bus. Daily destinations are Vang Vieng ($8, 5 hours) and Vientiane ($18, 7 hours) but others can be organised if you have a number of people going, or are prepared to pay the cost of the whole van (such as Nong Kiaow about $50, 3 hours, seats 6-7 people).

Boat

From Luang Prabang it is possible to go by boat to Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi, and to Huay Xai and the Thai border, via Pakbeng. It is not possible to go the whole way from Luang Prabang to Vientiane by boat. Instead, there is a speedboat between Vientiane and Pak Lay. There are no public boats. You have to hire the whole boat from a travel agent or at the boat landing. Speed boats cost about $160, seat 6 people, and take around 5 hours. Slow boats take all day, seat 10-12 people and cost $200. If you can hire a boat independently, the price can be substantially cheaper. Catch the bus from Pak Lay to Sayabouri, which takes about 3-4 hours, followed by a bus to Luang Prabang (about 9 hours).

The journey to Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi, a further hour upstream from Nong Khiaw and only accessible by boat, takes between 6 and 8 hours depending on the height of the river. The journey starts with an hour or two up the Mekong, and turns into the Nam Ou, right where Pak Ou caves are, so a visit to these can be combined with the trip if organised in advance. The Nam Ou is stunning, lined with huge limestone cliffs towering straight up out of the water, small white sandy beaches, jungle forest and small villages with children playing in the water or washing nearby. Most travel agents will organise a boat to make this journey, and advertise for others to fill any empty spaces. Boats are small and can be a little cramped, toilet stops are by the side of the river and you have to bring your own food and drink. But the scenery is beautiful and the trip is worth it. The cost for a private slow boat seating between one and six people is $90.

The most common boat journey is between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai. There are three options, with the fastest being by rocket boat. These speed boats make the distance in about 6 hours – approximately three hours for each leg with a brief stop in Pakbeng. The boat is very noisy and reputed to be dangerous. Passengers wear helmets and life jackets. Tickets for speedboats can be bought at all travel agents and cost $27 to Huay Xai and $18 to Pakbeng only. Rocket boats leave from the pier at Ban Don, which can be reached by tuk tuk. It takes about 15 minutes from town and should cost about 15,000 kip per person.

Two kinds of slow boat make the journey to Huay Xai via Pakbeng. The more popular and cheaper option is the daily “backpacker ferry”, which leaves from the boat pier behind the Royal Museum. Tickets can be bought from any travel agent in town, and cost 88,000 kip to Pakbeng, where onward tickets can be bought for Huay Xai. It departs daily. There is no limit to the number of tickets that are sold and it can sometimes be packed to the rafters. The designated boat for each day varies and as the boats are individually owned, the quality can vary widely.

The decadent option is to go by luxury slow boat with Luangsay Cruises. They depart Luang Prabang on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays in the high season or Wednesday and Saturday only from May to October, and stay at their own Luangsay Lodge one kilometre out of Pakbeng on their way through. The cruise includes all meals while on the boat and at the Lodge, accommodation in wooden bungalows with private bathroom and hot shower, an English-speaking guide, assistance crossing the Lao/Thai border and entrance to Pak Ou caves. This costs between $199 and $300 depending on the season, with late booking specials sometimes available if booked on location, and can be booked either by calling into the Luangsay office in Ban Vat Sene, Luang Prabang, telephone 071 252 553, fax 071 252 304, or their website http://www.mekongcruises.com or any travel agency in Luang Prabang, .

However you travel, the Mekong is a beautiful river, and this is one of the best ways to travel long distances through the country. There is plenty to look at, and the journey is relaxing on the slow boats. Highly recommended.