Pakbeng

Bus

To and from Pakbeng the most common access is by river, but there is also a road which leads to Udomxai -- all of 144 km away. It is possible to get to Luang Prabang in one day via Udomxai, or to other destinations from Udomxai.

Udomxai: Departs 08:30 and 09:30, takes 3.5 hours and costs 35,000 kip.

Boat

Slowboats between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang take two days to cover the 300 kilometres, and either way it costs about B600-700. The boat is also able to stop at Pak Ou caves (near Luang Prabang), usually by passenger consensus. Passengers are required to buy their own 8,000 kip entrance ticket, and occasionally boat staff demand an extra payment of $1 per person in order to stop. It is also possible to do just one leg of the journey for B350.

Departure times vary according to a number of factors including river speed -- it's a longer journey heading upstream -- but generally take place between 8.00am - 9.30am. A minimum of about 20 people are usually needed to depart, which is usually not a problem. Sometimes as many as 60 people are packed into one boat. There is nowhere to stop or buy lunch along the way, so make sure to pack lunch and plenty of water. Bookings can be made at any travel agent and many guesthouses in Luang Prabang and Huay Xai. Tickets are also available at a much higher price in Chiang Khong in Thailand and as are package deals with accommodation in Chiang Mai.

The Luangsay Cruise is a more expensive but luxurious way to travel this route, and unlike the backpacker option, includes accommodation at the gorgeous Luangsay Lodge as well as all meals, stops at ethnic villages and Pak Ou Caves, and assistance and transport crossing the border to Thailand. Prices vary seasonally between $199 - $300.

Rocket boats also make the journey between Huay Xai, Pak Beng and Luang Prabang. A faster but more dangerous and noisy option, these speedboats can do both legs of the journey in 2.5 to 3.5 hours each. The small, colourful boats are very noisy, and earplugs are definitely recommended. Some people have experienced temporary hearing loss. Most passengers wear helmets to fight the noise as well as for safety, and lifejackets for protection from the sun and biting wind.

Horror stories do abound about the speedboats ranging from death to crashes to engine failure and being stranded by the side of the river waiting for another boat to pass. Despite this of course most speedboats do make their destination in one piece and in just a fraction of the time of the more solid passenger ferries.

Speedboats depart from separate piers in Luang Prabang and Huay Xai (transport to the pier is not included in the ticket price) but the same pier as the slowboats in Pak Beng. They leave when the boat is full -- 6 tourists or 8 Lao. If the boat is not full, you can pay extra to cover the full price of chartering the whole boat. The full journey between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang is B1,100-1,200 per person (B5,000-6,000 to charter the boat) and one leg either way to or from Pak Beng is B600 per person (about B2500-3000 for the whole boat).