We have 27 places to stay in and around Bagan.
Bagan’s accommodation is divided between Nyaung-U and New and Old Bagan. Broadly speaking, the most upmarket resorts are found in the latter, the majority of budget options in the former and mid-range in New Bagan. There is of course plenty of cross-over. Bear in mind Nyaung-U is the largest town with the most room and restaurant choices, but it’s the furthest away from the temples and the most crowded in high season.
Although Nyaung U is the largest town with the most options, it does sprawl a long way along the road to the southeast. Swallowing up Wet Kyi Inn village, it gives you a strip of four kilometres or so liberally dotted with guesthouses and hotels. A series of eateries lies along the main road in Wet Kyi Inn. If you want to avoid a long walk or cycle ride in the dark to have dinner then bear that in mind.
Though predominantly aimed at the budget and flashpacker range, several very good mid-range choices are also found in town.
Old Bagan is home to a half dozen upmarket, large resorts. With strict and sensible regulations, not too many more are likely to be added. Whether any of these should be in the heart of the archaeological zone is debatable; we weren’t comfortable to see that, with one exception, all had ancient stupas enclosed on their own private land. Value for money is not good overall and you’ll presumably spend most of your time visiting temples anyway rather than hanging out in your resort. Bagan Hotel River View and Bagan Thande did offer some very reasonable low season deals, though the latter is our only real high season recommendation.
New Bagan was once Old Bagan, till the junta kicked the villagers out on their collective backsides to this dusty set of crossroads south of the major monuments that became New Bagan. Accommodation is a very mixed bag, attracting tour groups more than anything else. The accommodation generally is poor value, though at least rates are not as inflated as in Old Bagan.