Photo: Dawn views at Phu Chee Fah.

Where to stay in Phu Chee Fah

Phu Chee Fah

Small and large resorts are scattered all along the mountain and most of its approach roads but there are three principal concentrations of accommodation: Pathang Village at the northern end of the range, a cluster around the northern most of the two tracks leading to the Phu Chee Fah viewpoint and a large selection in and around Rom Fah Thai village. The former has a narrower choice but some good deals and is a pleasant, and quieter, village to stay in. The second group is the closest to the actual viewpoint so perhaps better if you don’t have transport but is rather isolated - there’s no village here - and has zero grocery stores or cafes. Rom Fah Thai Village possesses by far the largest range of accommodation, much of which lies within a short walk of the busy village with its shops and eateries. However this can get very busy at weekends, prices are consequently higher and resorts – sited within a very confined area – are built one on top of another. Finally if you do have your own means of locomotion, so getting to restaurants and so-on isn’t an issue, then you could try one of the more accentuated locations which may well offer better deals and certainly more peace and quiet.

Since tourism in Phu Chee Fah is so condensed into specific periods you will see some Pai style, wide price fluctuations, which are well worth taking into account when choosing your visiting time. On weekdays during rainy season you’ll find some exceptional deals whilst monsoon weekends and cold season weekdays represent medium occupancy and medium rates. Peak times – which is to say cold season weekends and public holidays – may be worth avoiding when availability will become an issue and prices soar.

During quiet periods at many spots it can be difficult to find any staff and some sites do close. For many though – it’s not that they’re officially closed – it’s just that no-one bothers to turn up and if you can catch an owner or caretaker with a key they’ll willingly open a chalet for you. Having said that even if you can get a room you need to check the eating options if you’re not within striking distance of one of the villages.

Many places do not have English language signs and speak no English. Furthermore, if they have translated their name it will invariably bear no resemblance to the original Thai one, so things do get complicated. Some of these resorts may consider foreign guests more trouble than they’re worth; some may make an effort, while a few are actually set up with foreign visitors in mind. In our selection we have favoured the latter. There are dozens of resorts strung along Phu Chee Fah and we’ve only scratched the surface, but when making your choice check location carefully since there is virtually no public transport, walks can be long and steep and food and supplies scarce.

Note, we couldn’t find any resorts with easterly aspects and all are located on the western slopes. The eastern side is protected land but that does mean just about every site has great sunset views across the valley to the west. Finally, as we mentioned, prices do vary enormously depending upon how busy or otherwise they are and very few spots seemed to have anything approaching fixed rates. If you’re not booking in advance then at many places we get the impression prices are decided as you arrive so bear in mind below rates are approximate.

Night time on the mountain is at best cool, occasionally downright cold, so nowhere has air-con and many rooms don’t even have a fan. Warm blankets and a duvet are more important but everywhere we checked was well prepared.


Route 1093 Pathang Village south exit
600B to 1,500B
Pathang Hill
Flashpacker - 600B to 1,500B
Route 1093 Pathang Village south exit
T: (087) 191 8808

Pathang Hill is a beautiful spot; super friendly, English speaking, owners and they’re very happy to welcome foreign guests so Pathang Hill gets out vote. No, it isn’t within walking distance of Phu Chee Fah but yes, it is within a short walk of Prathu Siam and you can’t have both. The main advantage of Pathang Hill is that, since the owners do speak English, it’s a lot easier to organise... Read our full review of Pathang Hill.

Route 1093 c. 500m south of Rom Fah Thai village
600B to 1,500B
Luk Phu Chee Fah
Flashpacker - 600B to 1,500B
Route 1093 c. 500m south of Rom Fah Thai village
T: (081) 673 1216

Luk Phu Chee Fah has a row of superb, spanking new bungalows with vertiginous balconies, cable TV, fridge, WiFi and coffee and tea making facilities. Bathrooms are sparkling new and modern and showers thankfully, up here, hot. Each has a terrace out front looking over the garden area and a balcony on the rear looking across the valley. Rooms aren’t huge but spacious enough and if your budget... Read our full review of Luk Phu Chee Fah.

Route 1093, Pathang Village south exit
Under 600B
Chill Chill Guesthouse
Backpacker - Under 600B
Route 1093, Pathang Village south exit
T: (089) 860 2527

A more than adequate second choice should Pathang Hill be full and indeed Chill Chill is located just across the road. While not much English was spoken they do at least have an English sign outside and staff were discreet but friendly enough. Chill Chill Guesthouse have the choice of great little chalets with table and chairs outside on a small balcony, with a garden in front and a view across... Read our full review of Chill Chill Guesthouse.

Off route 1093, near the foot of the northern most of the two concrete roads leading up to Phu Chee Fah viewpoint.
Under 600B
Home Chiang Dao
Backpacker - Under 600B
Off route 1093, near the foot of the northern most of the two concrete roads leading up to Phu Chee Fah viewpoint.
T: (096) 540 5230

We assume the owners have swapped one mountain for another and the Home Chiang Dao is part of a collection of resorts set at the foot of the northerly road leading up to Phu Chee Fah viewpoint. This is a few kilometres north of Rom Fah Thai and there are no shops or cafes in the vicinity explaining why the resort, and many others in this location, offer packages inclusive of meals. Run by a... Read our full review of Home Chiang Dao.

Rom Fah Thai Village
Under 600B
Khum Dok Seeow Resort
Backpacker - Under 600B
Rom Fah Thai Village
T: (083) 325 8785

Khun Dok Saew is right in the thick of the action above Rom Fah Thai village, where vividly painted resort upon resort are piled one atop another. This one is slightly off to one side, so with some semblance of tranquillity and sited on the lower section of slope so not too much of a struggle to get up and down to the shops and cafes. We went for the pink and orange resort reached by taking the... Read our full review of Khum Dok Seeow Resort.

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