The most upmarket of the Wet Kyi Inn strip of hotels, Bagan Umbra’s location has the same pros and cons. It’s got that Bagan feel, with several old temples being located close by, and if you don’t mind cycling then it’s a short ride either down to Old Bagan or back to Nyaung U’s eateries. If you’re on foot, it is isolated and close to not very much. Low period rates are very reasonable.

Snazzy set-up at reasonable prices. Photo: Mark Ord

We guess the imposing entrance is supposed to recreate a temple feel, but it looked more like a bright orange church to us. Pass this however and the gardens are beautifully maintained and the pool one of the best we saw anywhere in Bagan. Gardens even come with lily-filled streams and a large lawn that would be fine for croquet stretches down to an ancient little temple.

They’d completed a major renovation prior to our last visit, and the ochre exteriors and white interiors and varnished parquet were sparkling new. Surprisingly basic, decoration-less interiors are nowhere near as flashy as the setting, but rooms are clean and comfortable enough, and come with air-con, piping hot showers, fridge and tea- and coffee-making facilities. If pool’s a priority or you’re perhaps travelling with kids, this is a good choice.

Photo: Mark Ord

Note that high season rates for 2016-17 were to be determined at time of writing, so rates will be higher than low season rates noted below. Hopefully surcharges won’t be too high; it would be worth checking online booking rates too.