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It doesn't look so from the outside, but it's a large complex, with 98 rooms set in a number of long accommodation blocks, finished in bare brick and surrounded by wooden decking areas. Lower floor rooms have pleasant garden verandas.

Not a PR image. This is a room we stuck our heads into. Photo: Mark Ord

Rooms come in three prices with the primary difference being size. All are reasonably sized though and even lower floor ones are still bright and airy. Zfreeti opened in 2012, but the interiors and exteriors still appear crisp and new. Facilities include WiFi, cable TV, comfortable beds adorned with white linen and colourful local fabrics, minibar and spotlessly clean hot shower and toilet, with complimentary toiletries. Deluxe have additional safety deposit boxes and tea- and coffee-making facilities.

There is no need to splash out on Zfreeti's most expensive rooms -- the cheapest ones are adequate enough and represent great value for money in Bagan.

Comfortable decking for hanging out. Photo: Mark Ord

The air-con works well and WiFi is as good as anywhere else is in Bagan. The included buffet breakfast on a spacious rooftop terrace is particularly good too.

Reception is in an open-sided sala area and a great cafe is set next to their decent sized pool. While the pool is very welcome in Bagan's hot season, they do seem to skimp on parasols around the shade-challenged pool, which can be steaming in the hot season.

Cafe near the pool. Photo: Mark Ord

Zfreeti is situated in the centre of town, only a minute's walk from the restaurants and cafes of Nyaung U's so-called Restaurant Row, but as it's set on a quiet side street, it remains as peaceful as anywhere with 100 rooms can be. Note that the travel agent and bike rental shop directly opposite the hotel's main entrance, called AW, was the best and most helpful one we found in town.