Hard to get more convenient, Sovannkiri offers two different types of fan room, with prices going up a little for hot water — which you may well want to splash out on in the cooler months between December and February.

The rooms are nothing special, but clean and the owners are very helpful to the extent that they can be. English is quite limited. The biggest seller for this place is the restaurant downstairs, which serves up a huge menu of very well-priced Khmer specialties and Western staples. Tuck into a solid breakfast here, starting from just $2.00; try the Sovannkiri Breakfast if you’re the type who likes to start off the day with a well stuffed belly. Dinners also start at $2.00. If you’re a light sleeper, we recommend going for the slightly pricier rooms upstairs, as the bargain $5 ground floor rooms seem a little exposed and will pick up noise from early breakfasters.

All rooms are fan-cooled and include WiFi and TVs with multiple English-language channels. Beds are comfy with heavy blankets to keep you warm on chilly nights. As with much of the accommodation in Sen Monorom, no air-con rooms are available, but it’s a rare night indeed when it’s needed.

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National Route 76 (on the high street, below the market), Sen Monorom