Sovann Phum is the pick of the town’s generic Sino-Khmer-type hotels and, while nothing to write home about, does provide clean, comfortable rooms at reasonable rates.

Similar places are dotted along Route 5 but the advantage of this small hotel is a handy location right at the start of the highway as it leaves town, just past the main hospital. Phsar Leu and the taxi/bus station are only a couple of minutes’ walk from here.

The entrance is separated from the main road by a car-park, with reception on the ground floor, above which are three floors of rooms. The exterior is reflective glass and beige paint with only the Khmer script and token laterite columns letting you know you’re not in Danang or Mandalay. Some ground floor rooms have zero views while upper storey ones have pleasant communal balconies from where you can watch the Red Bull guzzling bus and truck drivers heading off for the last stretch to Phnom Penh.

To the left of reception -- seemingly an afterthought -- a narrow restaurant area has been tagged on and provides the non-inclusive breakfast; their dinners get decent reviews. Rooms themselves are clean and functional if nothing fancy, and come well equipped with fridge, cable TV, WiFi, air-con and spacious hot water bathrooms. Traditionally popular with resident NGO workers -- so they’re used to dealing with foreigners -- as well as local commercial travellers, Sovannphum is clearly doing something right as a huge new building was currently under construction to the rear when we visited in late 2016. When completed this will be the largest hotel in town.

As is standard in Kompong Chhnang, alternative cheap fan rooms are available. These are dingier and smaller but still come with ensuite bathrooms, so for those on a tight budget they may be of interest. Staff are helpful and English speaking, and though we didn’t see any, we’re guessing they should be able to dig up some bicycles or motorbikes if you ask.

Note next door is the similar looking Asia Hotel, which was under new ownership and undergoing a total make-over when we visited in September 2016; it may also be worth a look when finished.

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National Road Number 5 (toward Phnom Penh, just south of hospital and Independence Monument), Kompong Chhnang