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Pagoda Rocks Boutique Resort

Worth the effort of getting there

Beside Wat Leu, Sihanoukville Town T: (034) 939 111(067) 255 545(077) 524 275  F: (034) 939 222

Pagoda Rocks Boutique Resort

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Well-appointed and smartly designed wooden chalets set amid granite boulders and lush forest with only monks and monkeys for neighbours means Pagoda Rocks really does fit the cliché ‘oasis’.

Staying at Pagoda Rocks means you wouldn’t know you were in Sihanoukville anymore—and that’s a plus, not a minus by the way—and we’re not sure whether to describe the resort as isolated or secluded. Both do fit though and indeed we had such problems finding the place we very nearly gave up—thankfully we didn’t.

The restaurant at Pagoda Rocks.

The restaurant at Pagoda Rocks. Photo: Nicky Sullivan

Firstly this isn’t the sort of place you just pop by for a night while waiting for the island ferry—and if you do want to stay here we strongly recommend asking the staff to pick you up the first time. They have their own tuk tuk to collect guests so, get your bearings and grab a map, after which you can either hire some transport or continue to make use of the house transport since nowhere, apart from the adjacent wat, is within walking distance and town tuk tuks aren’t enthusiastic about going all the way up there.

Pagoda Rocks is located atop Phnom Wat Leu, named after the temple of the same name, and looked to us about the highest point around, so views are spectacular. Access is by a new road behind Psar Leu which connects Omui Street to Highway 4. The concrete road is steep and busy so again not a great place to learn to ride a scooter and in that case, you’d be better off relying on the house tuk tuk. At the road’s highest point, before it descends to meet the highway, a turning on the left winds along the crest to Wat Leu on the hill’s summit. Immediately before the wat on the right, you’ll see a driveway descending precipitously to the resort’s car-park.

Cool off at Pagoda Rocks.

Cool off at Pagoda Rocks. Photo: Mark Ord

It is, we repeat, worth finding with a welcoming reception/restaurant/cafe area ahead of you, a small but spectacular infinity pool slightly to the left and below that a selection of wooden chalets on stilts scattered down the hillside. Pagoda Rocks bills itself as a “haven of tranquillity in a garden setting” and for once that’s no exaggeration.

Designed to blend in with the surrounding landscape, from the outside the bungalows appear more modest than they really are. Inside, the polished timber floors, king-sized beds and tasteful furnishings will put an end to any initial doubts you may have about their comfort or style. Every bungalow has an ocean view balcony while WiFi, cable TV and DVD players will ensure you’re not without entertainment or contact with the outside world. A fridge and minibar offer instant refreshment or you can ask the staff to deliver a full meal to your room. All rooms are air-con and have ensuite bathrooms with hot water showers and/or baths.

As with certain other resorts and hotels we visited in the area our immediate reaction was—what a shame this wonderful spot is stuck in the middle of Sihanoukville. We’re not sure how many times a day we’d want to face the slog up and down the hill, (they do actually provide mountain bikes for the really keen); you definitely wouldn’t want to do it after a couple of cocktails at the beach and it’s neither easy nor cheap finding a tuk tuk willing to take you back from Ochheuteal at the end of an evening so, you are to some extent, stuck there.

If you are looking for a fine, comfortable and well-appointed chalet in a delightful setting to chill-out in; sup a cold one by the picturesque pool, catch up on some quality siesta time, read a book, (or even write one), then this is perfect. If you’re aiming to check-out a few of Sihanouk’s eateries and/or do a bit of evening bar-hopping then forget it. The place was deserted when we visited during low season but can apparently get very busy in high so, with a limited number of chalets, make sure you book in advance.

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Walk-in rates at Pagoda Rocks Boutique Resort

Type of room
Type of room, low and high season prices
Standard double room
Family room
Room: Standard double room, low season: US$30, high season US$65. Notes:
Room: Family room, low season: US$40, high season US$105. Notes:

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Where is Pagoda Rocks Boutique Resort

Pagoda Rocks Boutique Resort
Beside Wat Leu, Sihanoukville Town
T: (034) 939 111(067) 255 545(077) 524 275  F: (034) 939 222
Coordinates (for GPS): 103º31'19.74" E, 10º38'8.79" N
Room rates: US$35 to 75

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