Chilled local homestay
Jalan Pantai Buitan 1, Candi Dasa T: (0363) 41553, (0813) 5312 5888
In an out of the way corner of beach between Padang Bai and Candi Dasa, in the small fishing village of Buitan, you’ll find Lumbung Damuh.
Four large wood and thatch bungalows in the style of Balinese lumbungs (rice barns) and one small bamboo shack are peppered across a small beachside garden and family home. Rooms vary in size and price, the cheapest with cold-water only, and the most expensive, large and beach facing.
Lumbung Damuh is very much a homestay rather than a hotel and very much a family home. There are cats, dogs, rabbits and kids and it’s a little ramshackled and could probably do with some TLC. But you will have a personalised experience and the feeling of being part of the local village.
The simple double-storey huts have an upstairs sleeping area — just a mattress on the floor and a mosquito net. Bamboo bedside lamps add atmosphere, but may not be so good for reading. Standard fans are small — guests we spoke to said were very much needed as the rooms can be a little airless at night. The minibar fridge has spent a bit too long by the sea and is rather rusty, but still working. Downstairs is an open living area with comfortable lounge chairs and plenty of cushions and hammocks — a cool, airy space for chilling and getting into the village vibe. The attached open-style hot-water bathrooms, some with bath tubs, have a homemade, hippy feel. There are decorative touches throughout, including mosaic tiles and local paintings. Don’t expect pristine clean — edges are worn and dusty.
Breakfast includes home-baked bread. Friends who live in Bali say it's the best bread anywhere! They sometimes have pizza nights, baked in the stone oven, and some evenings can turn into a small party — think locals, guitars and moonshine (of both varieties). There’s free WiFi. The black-sand beach is slightly rocky with high waves at times. Local fishermen are friendly and offer snorkelling trips. Staff and family are warm and welcoming too.
We felt Lumbung Damuh was a little overpriced, particularly the beachfront huts — for better beachfront deals in a similar style go for boho Pondok Pisang
at Mendira or Ida’s
in Candi Dasa. However, if you’re after more of a chilled, local experience, the less expensive huts here are a good bet. Be warned, this is the sort of place you could get lost in for weeks.
It's a little tricky to find as it isn't signposted from the main road. Take the turnoff for the Royal Bali Beach Club and Lumbung Damuh is opposite it on the beachfront.
Type of room, low and high season prices
Room: Standard double room, low season: 300,000 rupiah, high season 300,000 rupiah. Notes: Cold water, garden view.
Room: Superior double room, low season: 350,000 rupiah, high season 350,000 rupiah. Notes: Hot water, garden view. Hot water, ocean view: 400,000 rupiah.
Location map for Lumbung Damuh
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(with Jasri Beach and Tirta Gangga) and Padang Bai