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Dotted within a family compound, a range of rooms are on offer from fan-cooled with cold-water showers to air-con with hot-water and some adding TVs. All include breakfast, WiFi, and use of the small swimming pool. Most have a fridge too.

Tiled rooms are clean, bright and airy; it’s a real hodge-podge of style with nothing really matching, however it’s comfortable and homey. Bathrooms are clean and functional. Furnished balconies and verandas overlook the pleasant grounds, upstairs rooms catch the breeze a bit more. The swimming pool is perfect for a cooling dip after you’ve walked the 10 minutes back from the beach, or pull up a sun lounge to catch some rays. Your host, Ketut, is a bird fanatic and keeps many caged birds; we are not fans, but they are well cared for and loved. Talk to him about his prize-wining songbirds (and his collection of ornate carved birdcages), and you may be surprised by his insights on poaching and endangered wildlife. Many wild birds are also attracted to the fruiting and flowering trees in the garden, adding to the delight of the place.

There are better value, nicer rooms around Sanur, but the friendly atmosphere, and local knowledge of the owner trumps some of the more sterile offerings. Some new rooms were under construction when we visited in January 2017, so some smarter options may be available soon, but in the meantime, construction work may put off some guests; check first to avoid noisy disturbances.

Yulia 1 Homestay sits at the northern end of Jalan Danau Tamblingan, right in the thick of shops and restaurants. If you’d really like air-con and hot water for a budget price, Vinandaka Homestay offers spotless rooms in their friendly family compound behind a small warung, down the road at number 50, but not much of a garden and no pool. Kirana Homestay is a bit leafier, but also has no pool.

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