Budget basics by the station
Rumah Susan occupies a beautiful, but very run-down colonial house with a lovely garden immediately next door to Margo Utomo Agro Resort opposite Kalibaru Railway Station.
The guesthouse offers two very basic and a bit grotty guest rooms behind the main house, but the historic architecture, location and price make it easy to ignore its faults. The simple Goldilocks-style room we viewed was set-up with four single beds offering a hodgepodge of saggy mattresses, yet to be made up, along with two new mattresses wrapped in plastic on standby leaning against the wall (we’d ring and request one of the new mattresses). A cheap chainstore wardrobe and side-table were the only other furnishings in the bare-bones tiled room.
The ensuite bathroom could do with a bit of scrub, but is more stained by age rather than dirty and provides a Western style throne toilet and a hot shower.
We like the wide shady veranda, furnished with a dining table, chairs and a lounge shared between the two rooms. Breakfast is not included, but you can request coffee or tea anytime and plenty of local warungs are nearby.
Friendly Pak Yamya who looks after Rumah Susan has basic English, but enough to get by. Call ahead to book as he is often elsewhere in the village (the email address we have listed is his daughter’s). Rooms are priced per person, but negotiable for a longer stay.
If you’d like somewhere a little less basic on a budget, you may consider jumping off the train at Glenmore, one stop away from Kailbaru, where on the main highway two kilometres from the station, Indonesian style Hotel Manik Jinggo offers a range of double and twin rooms, a swimming pool and restaurant. Standard rooms with cold-water mandi and squat toilets start at 100,000 rupiah; Superior fan rooms with hot-water Western style bathrooms are 200,000 rupiah and Deluxe air-con rooms start at 300,000; all including breakfast.
Alternatively, Naga Svarna Plantation is six kilometres from Kalibaru, or two kilometres from Glenmore and offers two clean basic rooms in a family home (cold water bathrooms) with a terrific outlook from the communal lounge overlooking their plantation.
Address: 12 Jalan Lapangan, Kalibaru
T: (0812) 3151 9851; (0878) 0211 4554;
Coordinates (for GPS): 113º59'2.43" E, 8º17'17.85" S
See position in Apple or Google Maps: Apple Maps | Google Maps
Room rates: Under 150,000 Rp
What we were quoted as a walk-in.
|Sgl fan private bathroom||50,000 rupiah||50,000 rupiah|
|Dbl fan private bathroom||100,000 rupiah||100,000 rupiah|
|Triple fan private bathroom||150,000 rupiah||150,000 rupiah|
|Quad fan private bathroom||200,000 rupiah||200,000 rupiah|
Sally spent twelve years leading tourists around Indonesia and Malaysia where she collected a lot of stuff. She once carried a 40kg rug overland across Java. Her house has been described as a cross between a museum and a library. Fuelled by coffee, she can often be found riding her bike or petting stray cats. Sally believes travel is the key to world peace.
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