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Unlike the claustrophobic mosaic of buildings found at Sunrise Guesthouse directly across the river, Sengdao has a spacious plot of flat land, a tidy lawn and garden interspersed with bungalows that are set far enough from the road so that traffic noise is not an issue.

They forgot balconies! Photo: Cindy Fan

There’s a choice of bamboo, wooden or concrete, the latter is at the river and has TV and air-con. As for the bamboo and wooden bungalows, some face the river, some back onto the back of house which is also home to some noisy roosters, some are off in the trees—you really have to just show up and choose what floats your boat from what’s available. Some are in significantly better condition than others and if you are picky about bathrooms, it’s worth looking at a few rooms. One we saw was fine, another was looking very tired.

You may assume that the concrete riverfront bungalows would be the first choice, but we’re baffled why they didn’t build it with a balcony. Instead, they’ve opted for almost floor to ceiling bay windows and stuck the entrance to the side with nowhere to sit outside. Sure, the view from inside is pleasant but somewhere to sit al fresco would have made such a difference.

Wooden bungalows scattered in the garden. Photo: Cindy Fan

Instead, we prefer the bungalows and at the price point, budget travellers will probably feel the same. They are set back from the river and there is no grand view, however, they are more in tune with the relaxed natural surrounds. The bamboo and wooden bungalows have a porch, electricity and fan.

The interior is simple and tidy, the space warmed up by bamboo thatch/wood and light from the window. Beds have mosquito nets, there’s table and a chair, while the basic tile and concrete bathroom has an electric heated shower and western toilet. A towel is provided.

Bungalow interiors are simple. Photo: Cindy Fan

Like almost every guesthouse in town, there’s an attached restaurant which has WiFi and a view of the bridge and river. There’s no English spoken so communication may be an issue and don’t expect help or travel advice.