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Most of the relaxation will be done in the backyard, which boasts a seasonal above–ground swimming pool, picnic tables and a sala hut with cushions, hammock and a view over the town sprawl. The building’s living/dining room is also open to guests, an airy space with soaring ceilings, big communal table and a small bar.

Comfortable rooms, ideal for a family. Photo: Cindy Fan

The Lao-Belgian couple running Pukyo offer five bright, clean and inviting rooms in a large modern Lao home. Some rooms have access to the balcony, all have sizeable windows, desk, bedside plugs, mirror, WiFi and fan. The downside is the size of the ensuite private bathrooms—we saw two and both were quite tiny, requiring manoeuvring to get the door closed and showering over the toilet, difficult for larger folk. On the upside, the small bathroom means more space in the room.

Being so far out of town has challenges and unless you have your own motorbike or bicycle, it’s not easy to pop into town or enjoy a late night out. The owners try to make things convenient as a simple breakfast and pick up is included.

Plenty of scope to relax out back. Photo: Cindy Fan

There’s free coffee, tea and fruit all day, and a shuttle to/from town for a fee. Motorbike rentals are available and Pukyo is a few kilometres closer to the jars than from town. They can also arrange Plain of Jars tours, bus tickets, their price including transport to the bus station.

Best of all, Pukyo Guesthouse provides the homestay feel that is lacking with guesthouses in town. The family is friendly and helpful. English, Dutch and Lao is spoken.