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Housed within a row of five shophouses on Lorong Stewart built in 1927 that once housed a coffee merchant and now incorporates a cafe and art gallery. The shophouses are divided into two suites with a common entrance come lounge shared between the two.

Comfy and bright. Photo: Sally Arnold

Groundfloor suites with a mix of the original cement and tiled floors feature a study/dressing room furnished with a small desk which opens to the bedroom and then continues to a delightful private courtyard encompassing the bathroom (you’ll need an umbrella in heavy rain when nature calls).

The upper suites are accessed via a narrow, steep staircase and here the beautiful original timber floors gleam. The master bedroom sits at the front of the house, buffered from the street noise by a small study, with a smaller second bedroom furnished with a single bed at the back. Here also, the spacious airy bathroom is semi-open to the elements.

A more frugal offering. Photo: Sally Arnold

Coffee Atelier conveys a marvellous sense of the original character and in keeping with the style of the era is furnished with antiques including four-poster netted beds in some rooms, and traditional Chinese furnishings, however modern amenities ensure that contemporary guests stay in perhaps a little more comfort than the inhabitants of bygone days. These mod cons include air-con, ceiling fans, flatscreen TV with satellite channels, DVD, minbar, safe and tea and coffee-making equipment.

Rooms get a bit of street noise, patricianly from the rowdy Tipsy Tiger Backpackers across the road, and the nature of the original building means creaks and squeaks from the wooden floors upstairs. The five-foot-way (covered footpath) outside the houses is furnished with comfortable rattan armchairs, perfect for watching the world go by. Breakfast is included in the rate and served at Cafe 55, the hotel’s corner restaurant.

Lounge around and watch life wander by. Photo: Sally Arnold

We love the charming character-filled rooms and find it difficult to choose between the two styles, but at a push, the private courtyard filled with pot plants and wafting tropical fragrances just gives the lower rooms the edge. Staff are delightful and professional too, making this an all-round decent choice. If you’d prefer a little more polish, but still an authentic experience, check out the rooms at Cheong Fatt Tze mansion and 23 Love Lane.