The spacious ocean-facing deck and double-storey viewing platform at Spheredivers Lodge offer tremendous sea gazing opportunities, and more than compensate for the rather bare-bones rooms in this friendly village homestay.

Set in a wooden longhouse on stilts above the water, Spheredivers Lodge offers modestly furnished dorms and private rooms, some with ensuite. Narrow beds sport clean, colourful linen — you’ll want a sleep sheet or sarong for the cooler nights and you might consider packing a mozzie net. Standard fans run overnight when the electricity is available.

The best rooms are four newer privates with ensuite facing the deck, and the very best room (if you’re quick) is at the front, offering unrestricted views out to sea—all for a bargain price (for Mabul). “Showers” are just a pipe in some of the basic bathrooms and it’s cold water only.

Included meals are served buffet style and the evening may turn into an “unplugged” jam session when the guitars get a strumming. Spheredivers can fix you up with a Sipadan permit if you take their three-night dive package. For non-divers, the reef below your dangling feet offers excellent snorkelling. We love the relaxing, friendly atmosphere at Spheredivers Lodge and the feeling that you’re getting a personal service.

Do watch out when you walk in along the boardwalk—it’s uneven and treacherous.

Walk-in rates are considerably less than their published rates, so call first to confirm. If you’re not a diver and on a budget, Summer Friends Homestay nearby is worth considering too.

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Mabul Island