Located towards the quiet end of the backpacker strip, the old Ayutthaya Guesthouse will be awful for some and just right for others.

We love the cosy ground-floor cafe and lounge with exposed brick walls, a dusty piano, dark-wood tables, vintage bicycles, a book exchange and usually some good blues or jazz playing. Artsy travellers who can go with the flow will probably enjoy the eccentric owner’s company, while anyone who expects prompt service and a “customer is always right” attitude should avoid the place. Accommodation starts with the cheapest dorms that we found in Ayutthaya, cooled only by fans and with shared bathrooms. The private rooms come in a few different sizes. Fan editions aren’t bad for the price, but they’re not all created equally so you might check out a few and perhaps compare them to what’s on offer at nearby Chanthana House and Baan Lotus before committing. Small brick-walled air-con rooms are located on the ground floor and come with decent hot-water bathrooms, firm beds and a couple of windows facing a wall. These are priced about 150 baht below most of the air-con rooms at other Ayutthaya guesthouses.

Mr Chai offers free WiFi in the lounge and can arrange onward bookings. When ready to enjoy a fresh coffee or cold beer, head on back here and see where the conversation takes you.

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12/34 Naresuan Soi 1, Ayutthaya