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Who says Chinatown lacks tranquility?

All 290 rooms spread over 15 floors were gutted and redone in 2015, with brand-new appliances, carpets and furnishings boosting the hotel firmly into the three-star range. An enormous sheet of tinted glass fronts the entire building, clashing with Chinatown’s modest old shophouses. Ribbons of neon green and purple light up the facade after dark — you certainly won’t have trouble finding the place.

The property also added fresh faces behind the reception desk; the woman who greeted us spoke excellent English with a smile and seemed pleased to show us a couple of rooms. The uniformed attendant who led us around could also speak clear English. He turned on the lights so that we could get a good look of the room and was happy to answer our questions.

The cheapest rooms come with white-tinted windows facing the hallways. While these aren’t bad, a deluxe room with windows overlooking the action of Yaowarat will probably be worth the extra 500 baht. Thick curtains keep these rooms dark for those who like to sleep in late. Midday traffic noise was barely audible in the sixth-floor room that we checked out.

We dig the mood lighting.

All rooms are equipped with firm beds and soft blankets, air-con, wide LCD TVs, glass desks, minibars, safes, WiFi and good-size bathrooms with rain showerheads in addition to removeable showerheads placed behind glass partitions. While lacking the elegant design of the nearby Shanghai Mansion, Hotel Royal’s rooms are far better than the similarly priced digs found at the nearby Chinatown Hotel.

A good reason to choose Hotel Royal over Shanghai Mansion is the long and narrow rooftop swimming pool with a tremendous southerly view — we appreciated the fibreglass safety walls that allow you to soak in the scenery while cooling off. Also featuring a bar and large deck with several lounge chairs, the pool area would be an absolute boon after exploring Chinatown’s hot and crowded streets. You’ll also find an extensive fitness centre studded with shiny treadmills, weight machines and free weights.

The location places you slap bang in the heart of Chinatown. From here it’s easy to graze on the abundant street food or pop into markets like Talad Mai and Sampaeng Lane. If you don’t feel like going out, the hotel boasts a large second-floor restaurant serving dim sum daily, and a 14th-floor “sky lounge” where you can sip on a beer, coffee or tea on a cushioned chair or sofa set beside wall-size windows.