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Originally just another clapped-out Thai hotel, the building underwent an unbelievable revitalisation after the current artist-owners took over in the late 2000s. Up front stretches an open-sided common area with tables, floor cushions and a roofed deck where kids can run around. Head further back to find the bakery, coffee shop, cooking area and local products store. Vintage cameras, phonographs and Thai movie posters decorate the corners.

Sweet dreams guaranteed. Photo: David Luekens

Each room is individually designed with murals depicting goldfish ponds, firefly-covered landscapes and rice fields, for example. While most rooms aren’t huge, the art joins high ceilings and mosaic-tile floors to create a sense of depth. Cleanliness is well looked after, and we like the custom-built copper pipes running to rain showers in the bathrooms. Many rooms sport balconies and floor-to-ceiling windows that help to make up for the lack of fridge and TV. At least one room looks out to the towering Buddha image at nearby Wat Indraviharn.

The hotel is great for families thanks to several rooms with multiple beds, as well as connecting rooms and a pricing system that allows extra guests at fair prices. The artwork and antiques will encourage young imaginations to be creative, and the notably patient staffers appeared to be doing a great job entertaining some youngsters when we stopped by.

Interesting piping. Photo: David Luekens

Phra nakorn norn len translates as “sacred city of sleep and play”, the len aspect covered by craft and cooking workshops that attract local Thais in addition to guests. On any given day you might create etchings, embroideries, fisherman’s pants, hats, toys, pillows, breads and soaps that can be carved into “soap-blossoms” later. The classes are casual and there’s no pressure to join.

Phra Nakorn Norn Len sits hidden behind greenery down a quiet side lane lined with old houses, a school and a few hole-in-the-wall eateries and shops. While there is a restaurant on site, nearby Krung Kasem and Samsen roads host lots of great food. The Dusit palaces and Wat Benchamabophit are within walking distance to the east, and Thewet river ferry pier is an easy hop to the west. On the two-kilometre walk south to Khao San Road you could grab a coffee at Unbranded Cafe, which is run by the same group.

Sociable setting. Photo: David Luekens

The hotel is a bit tricky to find. The easiest access is from Krung Kasem Road to the north, from where it’s a three-minute stroll down Thewet Soi 1 to the easy-to-miss front gate. If Phra Nakorn Norn Len is full, as it often is, the nearby Baan Tepa Boutique House is a decent alternative.