Relax by the river
Pass the National Library and a cluster of colourful houses and you’ll come to Kaloang Home, a family-run place offering 10 good-value rooms along with access to a spacious riverside restaurant.
Built entirely above the water, the place started as a restaurant focusing on seafood dishes served to tables spread over a wide roofed deck. While most staffers keep busy cooking and serving food, an older woman who appeared to be in charge gave us a sweet welcome and made it clear that guests can linger at one of the many tables whether ordering something or not. It’s not the best river view in Bangkok, with part of the outlook blocked by an adjacent boat dock, but you do get a breeze and the atmosphere is relaxing.
Though some travellers will find the place too rustic or unkept, we liked the old-style Thai vibe created through heavy wood seats, a large spirit house, an old samlor and other vintage pieces. We reckon that the family in charge—or their parents and grandparents—pieced the deck together with their own hands. WiFi is free and there’s a small selection of travel books on a shelf beside some toy dinosaurs.
Set back behind the restaurant and fronted by a shared porch, rooms are situated off either side of narrow halls on both the first and second floors of a wooden building that was added in more recent years. Ground-floor rooms have windows facing an outside wall, and interior floors and walls made of dark wood don’t help to brighten things up. You might request an upper floor room with more windows and perhaps a partial river view.
The rooms that we checked out were cramped but clean and well kitted out with fridges, air-con, ceiling fans, wall-mounted TVs, glass shower stalls in the hot-water bathrooms and soft linens on double or twin beds. Green and blue stained glass joins generic pictures of flowers for a hint of decoration. These digs should be fine for a snooze and the prices are reasonable, especially when considering the riverside setting.
The property extends from the very end (or beginning) of Sri Ayutthaya Road, which runs inland to backpacker spots like Shanti Lodge and Tavee Guesthouse closer to the National Library. We like the scene on the road in between, defined by modest yet attractive houses, parked tuk tuks and street food stalls. Catering more to middle-age flashpackers, Kaloang Home provides an affordable alternative to the more hippie-ish options nearby.
Some will find the location too out of the way and you do get the feeling of being well removed from the busier parts of Bangkok. But Thewet river ferry pier is close by and you can easily walk a few hundred metres east to Samsen Road to catch a bus or taxi down to Khao San Road, located less than three kilometres to the south.
Address: 2 Sri Ayutthaya Rd, Bangkok
T: (02) 281 9228; (02) 282 7581;
Coordinates (for GPS): 100º30'4.37" E, 13º46'24.82" N
See position in Apple or Google Maps: Apple Maps | Google Maps
Room rates: 600B to 1,500B
What we were quoted as a walk-in.
|Dbl fan private bathroom||880 baht||880 baht|
David Luekens first came to Thailand in 2005 when Thai friends from his former home of Burlington, Vermont led him on a life-changing trip. Based in Thailand since 2011, he spends much of his time eating in Bangkok street markets and island hopping the Andaman Sea.
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