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After looking in dozens of heritage houses in Bangkok, from other bed and breakfasts to museums, we feel that Baan Noppawong is one of the most gorgeous inside and out. Intricate woodcarvings join other elements of the original craftsmanship in a soothing white and fern-blue palette. Varnished teak floors and stairs feel solid, without the creakiness often found in old houses.

Immaculate interiors. Photo: David Luekens

Construction in the pre air-con days resulted in an open design with high ceilings in the reception area and open sides to a second-floor landing. In both of these common areas you’ll find cushioned chairs alongside antique clocks, ceramics, chandeliers and soft watercolour paintings. A stripe of open-air window space tops the walls to provide airflow, and we like how this was covered with glass rather than boarded over in the air-con guestrooms.

Though we’d probably pass on the cramped single set beside reception, the second least expensive double rooms looked inviting with wide windows, dark-wood desks and modern Buddhist-inspired art. Those with more to spend could book one of the larger suites; we prefer the junior suite on the top floor but the senior suite has a Jacuzzi tub to go with a ground-floor position.

Rooms are airy. Photo: David Luekens

All rooms are immaculate and outfitted with flatscreen TVs, free WiFi, coffee/tea facilities, slippers and hairdryers. All but the cheapest rooms have sun windows in spacious bathrooms with some greenery complimenting wood or mosaic-tile floors and rain showers set behind glass partitions.

The house was built by a noble family—the Noppawong na Ayudhaya’s—and is now operated by descendants of the original owners. Yes, an actual Noppawong will probably welcome you to Noppawong House. They provide top-notch service and provide a complimentary breakfast at tables set beside koi ponds and well-groomed hedges in the garden area that rims the house.

They don’t make them like they used to. Photo: David Luekens

The location near Democracy Monument is handy for exploring the old town with its many historical sights and streetside kitchens, and a side lane setting keeps the area relatively quiet. The one drawback is a large and cluttered car service centre that you’ll have to pass when walking to the property from the Dinso Road (east) side. It can be avoided by entering from Tanao Road, where you can also turn north and cross Ratchadamnoen AVenue to reach Khao San Road, or south for a stroll through the Phraeng Phuthong heritage neighbourhood.

If you like the look and style of Baan Noppawong and are set on staying in the old quarter, you might also consider Old Capital Bike Inn, Arun Residence or, for less cash, Baan Dinso. The Raweekanlaya is also worth a look if you don’t mind a more out-of-the-way location in exchange for a swimming pool.