Budget travellers can still grab a rundown woven bamboo raft room with a thin mattress on the floor, portable fan and porches with a couple of chairs. Guests staying in these use shared cold-water bathrooms set up on the lawn. Families also have what looked to be a promising rafthouse option with air-con, fridge, ensuite bathroom and multiple beds in a large floating house painted pastel pink. This was full during our last visit and should be reserved ahead of time.

Plenty of space to run wild. Photo: David Luekens

If you prefer to be on land, you could opt for a large and clean bungalow with woven bamboo walls, thatch roof, floor cushions on the porch, comfy bed, fridge and attached hot-water wet bathroom. These types of freestanding bungalows are common in the islands but unusual in Kanchanaburi, and we like them even if the price is a little high. They face the lawn; from the porch you’ll have to turn your head to see the river.

You could save cash without sacrificing comfort by taking one of the newest rooms in a two-floor concrete building connected to reception at the back of the property. These are spacious, spotless and modern, sporting TVs, fridges and wet bathrooms along with wooden chairs on river-view porches. Ask for one as far away from reception as possible.

Comfortable with a lawn view. Photo: David Luekens

Built around a lawn tumbling down to the river, Bamboo House has one of the most relaxing settings of any place to stay in Kanchanaburi, and the Death Railway Bridge is only a few hundred metres away. Though welcoming enough, the receptionist was not enthusiastic about showing us rooms. WiFi is free but patchy. Rates include breakfast; we’d ask to skip it for a reduced rate.

Right next to Bamboo House is the smaller Bamboo Ya (T: (081) 487 944), which has smaller and more affordable air-con bungalows made of concrete and equipped with fridge and TV. Rooms over there start at around 600 baht and you could easily check out both places before deciding.