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Approaching from land rather than water, visitors first pass through an old-style Thai gate before stepping down a long wooden walkway perched on stilts above mangrove forest dotted with orchids. You then come to the single-floor wooden house itself, which reaches out to a wide wooden terrace set directly above the water. Tables, loungers and hammocks sit beneath a high thatched roof, within easy reach of the kayaks.

A charming riverside house. Photo: David Luekens

Rooms are simply furnished but spacious and tastefully done with bamboo features, wood-and-glass concertina doors and comfortable beds. Each comes with hot-water shower and free WiFi, and all but the lone “budget room” bags you a deck with river view—those are in addition to the shared deck right by the water. There’s also a good-value family suite featuring two bedrooms and a sofa.

The Thai/British owners do a terrific job of making guests feel at home. They’re also a goldmine of useful information about Ko Chang, as evidenced by the associated website: Iamkohchang.com. While much of their knowledge is found on the site, there’s no substitute for staying at Baan Rim Nam and getting to know them in person a bit.

Watch life cruise on by. Photo: David Luekens

Though it’s located slap bang at the centre of Chang’s west coast, Baan Rim Nam feels secluded thanks to its location near the end of a sandy lane within a five-minute walk of the beach. Fireflies often flicker in the mangroves during Khlong Prao’s reliably quiet nights.

The owners also handle bookings for two private houses located elsewhere on the estuary: Baan Zen and Baan Moon. Fetching around 6,000 baht per night in high season, both appear to be worthy options for groups and families.

It doesn’t get more riverside than this. Photo: David Luekens

Baan Rim Nam is one of several small guesthouses found along this pretty stretch of the waterway. Set a little further up the canal but accessed by boat on the opposite bank, Watercolours is a Dutch-run boutique-style place that shows promise after opening for 2018. On the other side of the canal, Moley’s is a friendly British-run budget haunt, while the easily overlooked Baan Talay offers ocean-themed rooms attached to Phu Talay Seafood Restaurant.

(Disclosure: We know the owners of Baan Rim Nam.)