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After passing the artistic signage and wandering down a tree-lined stairway to the beach, we found about a dozen Thais and foreigners chilling at an open-sided cafe while showing off their beards, tattoos and dreadlocks. They were very welcoming despite our clean-cut appearance, explaining the room options and inviting us back later for the weekly Monday reggae party. We declined but we later heard it from across the bay.

A few flavours. Photo: David Luekens

Peppered along the shady hill within sight of the sea, cube-shaped cabanas are clean and inviting with turquoise trim on white concrete exteriors and brushed concrete joining potted plants and artsy framed photos inside. Tables and lounge chairs furnish the small front porches.

With natural light flowing in through several glass windows, the rooms are stylish and well equipped with soft beds, desks, WiFi, kettles, fridges and spacious bathrooms sporting stone floors and hot-water showers. Most bungalows were designed for two and are not huge, but you’ll also find a two-floor house that appeared to be a good option for families.

The beach outlook is solid. Photo: David Luekens

Expect live music until around 23:00 when crowds gather for those reggae vibrations. We were told that rooms have soundproofing, but we assume some noise would be audible because it’s really loud, though the music only really gets cranked for a couple of hours. At any time you can kick back with the Indie crew and strum a guitar while having a beer or coffee on the beach.

Though it’s easy to overlook, Haad Sai Noi is a sweet little beach with only hammocks, umbrellas and reggae music spreading to a few similarly low-key businesses. Neighbouring I Do I Do is a top-ranking restaurant with sunset views while nearby Rasta View boasts a broad vista over the bay.

No shortage of lazing options. Photo: David Luekens

In the far corner of the beach, Maha Guesthouse has a few sea-view air-con rooms that are worth a look if Indie is full—the upper floor edition for around 1,300 baht gives you a great ocean outlook.

If you like the reggae scene but need a cheaper room, either head inland to Tree House Cottages or the other small bungalow joints found away from the shore, or perhaps try to score one of the three bungalows at nearby Rasta Home.