Unless you're disembarking at Pakarang, the signless Good Feeling is the first bungalow joint you'll see after walking off the pier.
It was the first resort on the island and remains an excellent choice. The best white bungalows are dotted along a mix of white sand beach and rocky outcrops with a trail running behind them, a fair walk east of reception. It's a fantastic location; away from the daytrippers and with clear aquamarine water that offers some fine snorkeling opportunities. The beachfront bungalows are relatively spacious, with several windows and huge porches that are perched on stilts overlooking the sea. The water gushes directly under several of the bungalows at high tide, but this part of the island is sheltered from the dry season wind so the gentle sound will probably lull you to sleep rather than keep you awake. If you prefer high ground, a handful of smaller, cheaper bungalows are perched on the hill, right above the restaurant, and accessed by steep concrete steps. Rooms are simple but a definite step up from Paradise -- concrete or wood floors, relatively soft beds on raised platforms, mosquito nets and private cold-water bathrooms with bucket-flush Western toilets. This is a family-run spot and we found the soft-spoken owner to be friendly and laid back. The scene here is quiet, but Paradise's livelier restaurant isn't too far away.
Type of room, low and high season prices
Room: Bungalow fan private bathroom, low season: closed or n/a, high season 300 baht. Notes: Hillside, 400 and 500 bahr for beachside
Ko Wai (centre of the north coast)
T: (081) 850 3410
Room rates: Under 600B