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Fronted by a tour info centre and large open-sided restaurant serving Thai and Western fare, the Garden Lodge extends quite far behind with rooms available in several different concrete buildings. The best are found in a two-storey stack featuring wide windows, balconies, daybeds, Thai woodcarvings, LCD TVs and even a sofa in the family room. While not cheap, these should do the trick for flashpackers and families. Located at ground level, the cheaper standard rooms are a lot darker and we found the standard air-con room to be musty and overpriced, though it does come with a fridge, TV and ensuite hot-water bathroom. The cheapest “backpacker” rooms are very basic and rely on shared hot-water bathrooms -- we’d be inclined to head over to Greenleafbefore taking one of these unless you only need a cheap room without the tour.

At the back of the grounds, a small and unexpected swimming pool should do the trick to cool off, even if it didn’t appear to be very well maintained. The English-speaking woman who runs the place has been at it for a long time; she’s so sharp that she guessed we were guidebook writers after we popped in to inquire anonymously. She offers maps along with sound advice and a wide range of tours that go far beyond the national park. Unlike at Greenleaf, it’s not necessary to book a tour to stay here.

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