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Rooms remain acceptable, rates reasonable and particularly for anyone just passing through and arriving too late to make it out to Ban Tham, this is a useful address to have. Decor and furnishings probably haven’t changed in twenty years but for 500 baht you do get functioning (albeit noisy) WiFi, air-con, hot shower, cable TV (one English language channel), a fridge and free Nescafe in the morning. The bed was large, mattress comfortable enough and nothing bit us, though the extra 150 baht for twin occupancy does seem a bit unnecessary for what amounts to an extra towel and cup of instant coffee.

The rooms are not fancy. Photo: Mark Ord

The location is conveniently central with several cafes within easy walking distance; there’s a very good and kosher massage parlour across the car-park from reception (open 10:00–20:00) and the Bangkok buses stop right outside. (Indeed reception is the ticket sales office.) The reception and lobby are located in an old teak building looking onto the main street—and it’s good to see they didn’t demolish the old wooden house when they constructed the new hotel—with rooms situated in a more modern, pale pink coloured, two-storey block to the rear.

Staff are helpful, albeit with not a lot of English spoken, and though there’s no bicycle or motorbike hire you can get one from Sompraew Cafe down the street. If the sachet of instant or bunch of bananas isn’t to your liking then Krua Chiang Dao opposite opens at 07:00 with good fresh coffee and an array of breakfasts. This might not be anyone’s first choice but it is a useful and acceptable plan B for Chiang Dao.