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P., set in an attractive two-storey building down a quiet side soi. Rooms are clean and comfortable and come with TV, private bathroom and hot water. Staff are helpful, though since it seems to be a one-man operation and he’s not a permanent fixture of the guesthouse, he can on occasions take a bit of finding. There’s useful bicycle and motorbike hire as well (70/250 baht per day.) The main problem with S.P. is that, though it is a two-storey building, it’s a small one and there just aren’t that many rooms. This means that as it’s a popular spot, availability is a problem at busy times like weekends and public holidays, particularly in winter. (We called on three separate occasions in December and it was full each time.) The guesthouse is another that’s not so easy to find. Head north on Sumondhewaraj and take the right opposite the Yamaha dealers.

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