The impressive old teak-fronted Phuka Nanfa used to be a slightly rundown flashpacker spot but is another Nan hotel that’s seen a total makeover of late.

It now places itself firmly in the boutique Lanna category, with prices to match. This is as upmarket as you’ll find in downtown Nan. We confess to preferring the old rickety Nanfa managed by Nan’s equivalent of Basil Fawlty who’d occasionally stagger home worse for wear so you’d be woken up as he got a earful from ‘Cybil’ waiting in ambush in reception. It had character but now has pretensions.

Yes, the 80-year-old teak building is very impressive, and was well worthy of conservation, but it’s still a small hotel with no pool, no restaurant as such (a tiny cafe area serves breakfast) and zero garden looking directly onto the pavement of a busy street. We can’t see how it justifies its price tags: in peak season their rooms go for up to 5,300 baht, though apparently discounts are available on their site for low season and weekends. It certainly seems to appeal to well-heeled domestic tourists though and when we visited in high season it was full, so if this does float your boat you’d better book in advance. Rooms and communal areas – library and lobby – are all very pleasant indeed, with polished old teak floors, wall panelling and furniture, and tasteful Lanna-style decorations. Rooms come with equally well decorated bathrooms, WiFi, flatscreen TVs, cable and breakfast is included in the rate. It's all very good if you have the cash, and of course location is very convenient -- but we do miss Basil!

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369 Sumondhewaraj Rd, Nan