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Set in a venerable dark-wood building, the cheapest rooms are cramped but charming with several windows draped in light cotton curtains and decent beds cooled by fans. These rely on simple shared hot-water bathrooms. At the back of the property, a handful of log bungalows are stacked close together with foliage draped over the roofs. These come with a lot more space, soft beds on tile floors, more than one mirror and small ensuite bathrooms -- not too shabby for the price.

We’ve heard good reports about Ban Thai’s restaurant, serving affordable breakfast, lunch and dinner at a roofed dining area that often fills up with travellers in the evenings. The family staff speaks minimal English but do a fine job of taking care of guests, not to mention the koi fish found in small ponds amid the well-groomed grounds. Though we’re slightly partial to TR House, Ban Thai does have better common areas.

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