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Set in a two-floor hotel-style building, the standard rooms have barely enough space to squeeze in soft double beds over the white-tile floors -- these are clean and air-conditioned but rely on shared hot-water bathrooms. You’ll find much larger rooms with ensuite bathrooms at Blue House and other places, but Pai has the cheapest rooms in Sukhothai that also get you a swimming pool.

Room interior at Pai Resort. Photo: David Luekens

Offering way more space and extras like LCD TVs, fridges, private terraces and ensuite bathrooms with ceramic basin sinks adorned with traditional Thai-style scenes, the pricier “bungalow” rooms offer solid flashpacker value. All of the concrete rooms are stacked close together and have minimal windows -- this isn’t the most charming accommodation in Sukhothai.

The roofed pool is small but will be most welcome after a day of cycling around the ruins. Serving fresh coffee and some cocktails along with basic Western breakfasts and Thai dishes, an inviting cafe fronts the property. We found the staff disorganised and not too much English is spoken. Rates may jump by 50 to 300 baht at peak times of year.