Set just back from the Bai Fern Restaurant in the centre of town, the guesthouse is fronted by a bamboo table and rental bicycles parked in a sparse roofed common area. Step inside and you’ll see some maps before the English-speaking Burmese owner pops out to greet you. He was quick to show us the rooms, all relying on small shared bathrooms situated on the ground floor -- hot-water heaters are provided but they didn’t look to be in good working order. The cheapest rooms are tiny wooden boxes with rough spring beds, threadbare linens, wall-mounted fans and windows facing the hallway; these can get darn hot. Climb the narrow stairway to find much-larger air-con rooms with two single beds, multiple windows and splotchy dark-blue paintjobs.

The building has seen better days but we didn’t notice any obvious grime or cobwebs. Even so you’ll find better double rooms for similar rates at several other places, so Bai Fern is really only worth considering if you’re a solo traveller on a shoestring budget.

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