The Trekker Hill is another laid-back option for backpackers, with a handful of rooms in a rustic wood bungalows perched on a hill extending from the east side of town.

The A-frame bungalows come with fans, mosquito nets and basic hot-water wet bathrooms -- they were full when we last passed through but from the outside they appeared to be well suited to nature lovers. Travellers on tight budgets can go for a very basic dorm room, and chances are that you'll be the only one occupying it during low season. A pleasant, if cluttered, shared terrace affords views over the town and western mountains. Grab a seat to socialize or pull out one of the many coffee table books on high-powered cars and planes.

Trekker Hill from the garden. Photo: David Luekens

The guy who greeted us seemed a bit standoffish but was friendly enough. Trekker Hill is one of the better outfits in Umphang when it comes to trekking and rafting, and they advertise “hilltribes cultural studies.” Most people who stay here also join in the activities. There’s no sign along the main road and the place is somewhat difficult to find -- find Prawatpriwan Soi 2 and Trekker Hill will be on the left as you walk uphill.