The long-running Umphang House remains a solid choice if you’d prefer a smaller guesthouse in the heart of town.
We’d skip the 250-baht standard rooms in the cracked concrete building that opens onto a sparsely decorated dining and common room, and instead head across the gravel driveway to one of the wood-and-bamboo detached rooms with porches. These have several screened windows, firm beds with old linens, mosquito nets, TVs and basic hot-water wet bathrooms. Rooms at the back of the small property bag you a little more space and privacy. One benefit of the small grounds is that the free WiFi works inside the rooms, or so we were told.
The soft-spoken man who runs the place speaks good English, offering a range of trekking, rafting and elephant programs. We arrived to find a pair of Karen staffers who didn’t speak English; they immediately called the owner, who showed up in two minutes. This is also the only place offering motorbike rental that we came across in Umphang.
If you’d prefer an air-con room in “downtown” Umphang, the nearby K&K Guesthouse offers basic rooms in a three-floor concrete building on Sukhumwattana Road. K&K’s owners don’t offer tours and English is not a strong suit, but the rooms are well suited for a long stay.
Type of room, low and high season prices
Room: Standard double room, low season: 250 baht, high season 250 baht. Notes:
Room: Bungalow fan private bathroom, low season: 300 baht, high season 300 baht. Notes: 400 baht for a larger bungalow