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The small guesthouse occupies a couple of rowhouses in a newish concrete building that looks incongruous on the inland side of this narrow riverside lane otherwise defined by old wooden houses and the historic Wat Phlap Phlachai, which is right next door and visible from tables on a stilted deck. The location is perfect for exploring downtown Phetchaburi, and parking is available.

Smart modern rooms. Photo: David Luekens

Each floor has five or six rooms relying on four shared bathrooms with hot-water showers—we essentially had our own bathroom set half a step from our door. Air-con doubles represent decent value and larger groups could grab a quad with private bathroom, but we’d skip the cramped fan-cooled double in favour of an air-con room at nearby JJ Home or Sabaidee Resort.

Rooms at White Monkey are comfortable with thick blankets on decent spring beds and glass windows opening to screens that face the lightly trafficked street. Cleanliness is well looked after and larger rooms bag you a desk, LCD TV and/or fridge. Though lacking the charm of older guesthouses, rooms do have framed pictures of stuffed monkeys and rabbits on the walls.

Homely decor. Photo: David Luekens

Guests trade their shoes for slippers at the door and pass through a cramped reception and dining area, where free toast and coffee are served in the mornings. Staffers who speak some English give out maps and offer free WiFi and bicycles along with a good spread of info on the area. In addition to the deck you’ll find shared computers, books and sofas on each of the upper floors.