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A row of simple white concrete bungalows with green metal roofs and plastic chairs on porches overlook a shaded lawn that opens directly to the beach. A few more rooms are set further up the hill and also afford sea views—these are newer than the beachside rooms but they were full on our last visit.

Things have improved a bit since our last visit. Thumbs up! Photo: David Luekens

Inside the older rooms you get a soft bed raised off the floor, mosquito net, tiny make-up desk and standard cold-water bathroom with Western flush toilet. You'll also find a couple of old bamboo huts closer to reception. These are dusty and come with hard beds and squat toilets in dark cement bathrooms; we’d skip them in favour of Chao Lae Homestay or Jungle Huts unless you’re set on a sea view.

The resort shares the seafront with only a fisherman's house; the sedate atmosphere pulls you in and makes it easy to forget the day of the week. On the spacious lawn you’ll find swings, chairs and a shower and sink attached to a tree. There’s also a large cement-floor pavilion serving as reception as restaurant. The owners speak minimal English but have always been welcoming to us.

It's easy to lose track of time here. Photo: David Luekens

Panka Bay attracts some long-term repeat guests, though prices did jump since our last visit. To get here, walk straight north through Chao Lae Homestay and go left when you hit the sand.