The scene at Cafe Lipe is like a throwback to the days when Lipe was a bastion of backpackers who snorkelled and chilled in hammocks by day and strummed guitars before retiring to simple beach shacks at night.

Clustered below a canopy of trees and orchids behind the excellent beachfront cafe, a handful of thatch-roofed bamboo bungalows come with soft mattresses and mosquito nets, garden bathrooms with cold showers and tiny sinks and large porches with floor cushions on grass mats. Fans and shade from all of the trees should keep you relatively cool at night. Do note that there’s a three-night minimum stay in high season.

Taking it easy is easy at Cafe Lipe. Photo: David Luekens

The Swiss manager and Thai staffers are all a pleasure to be around. They take breaks from serving terrific Thai food, sandwiches and coffee to point out colourful birds amid the foliage.

You’ll also find free WiFi, relaxing music, a book exchange and plenty of spots to chill with a sea view. The location on Pattaya Beach is central but far enough removed from the bars to stay relatively quiet at night.

Old school, just the way we like it. Photo: David Luekens

For old-style backpacker value and atmosphere, Cafe Lipe leads the pack on Pattaya Beach and probably the island as a whole. If they’re full (and they usually are in high season), nearby Seaside, Moonlight and Family Song are all worthy alternatives. Cafe Lipe may close for the worst of rainy season.