Rundown but cheap huts
Chaloklum's beach road ends at North Beach, a classic-style beach bungalow operation with old, run down, but not unreasonably priced wooden bungalows.
With a restaurant sitting by the end of the road, the resort overlooks some of the best and least disturbed, of Chaloklum's beach. North Beach (we assume the name is referring to Chaloklum being on Ko Pha Ngan's northern coast) has a single row of rather wobbly and bouncy bamboo, wood and rattan bungalows set under shade trees and looking out to sea.
Taking into consideration the bungalows are well over a decade old (the earliest pic we have of them in 2004) they're holding up ok! They're available in both fan-cooled and air-con, but we'd definitely go with the fan option as the hut is otherwise extremely musty and stuffy. Showers are warm water but the toilet is a western bucket flush – our least favourite combination.
The beach out front here is excellent, has a few beach umbrellas and the restaurant plonks a few tables and chairs on the sand if you want to enjoy your meals with your toes in the dusty sand. It is also a popular spot in the late afternoon as it is reasonably well positioned for the sunset. Staff here get extremely mixed reviews online, but we found them to be friendly and chatty when we dropped by.
Given the beachfront location and the state of the bungalows, the rates here are very reasonable, despite the age of the bungalows. Please note the accommodation here is basic and rough around the edges – if you'd prefer something more upmarket in this area, Fanta is about 100 metres further along the beach and has smart modern bungalows from 2,000 baht and sketchy old shacks for 500 baht.
Another option, Rose Villa is about half way back along the beach towards Chaloklum but they've inexplicably built quite a few of their bungalows with the back facing towards the ocean.
What we were quoted as a walk-in.
|Bungalow fan private bathroom||400 baht||400 baht|
|Bungalow air-con private bathroom||800 baht||800 baht|
Stuart McDonald co-founded Travelfish.org with Samantha Brown in 2004. He has lived in Thailand, Cambodia and Indonesia, where he worked as an under-paid, under-skilled language teacher, an embassy staffer, a newspaper web-site developer, freelancing and various other stuff. His favourite read is The Art of Travel by Alain de Botton.
Our top 10 places to stay in and around Ko Pha Ngan