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You can enter via the associated (and excellent) 1952 Cafe off Sathanee Road, or through the main lobby off Phra Ram VI. In the latter you’ll find a spacious common room with guitars, books, tables, a shared kitchenette and reception desk staffed by a cheerful English-speaking woman when we last stayed. Murals join antiques and photos of mid-20th-century Trang for decoration.

A classic chilled out travellers' common room. Photo: David Luekens

Stairs lead up to air-con rooms available in four sizes, starting with a windowless “standard” that we’d avoid, and leading up to a family room on the upper floor. Each a little different from the next, the 740-baht double rooms all have windows, comfy mattresses, fridges, TVs, glass-topped tables and hot-water wet bathrooms with polished concrete walls and a potted plant or two.

Do ask to look at a few rooms, as some are quieter and brighter than others. A few larger double rooms with wide LCD TVs bag you access to a shared balcony overlooking the street for an extra 100 baht.

Air-con rooms are available in four sizes; ask to see a few as they vary in style. Photo: David Luekens

Cleaners do a good job, even if the odd scuffmark or slow-moving drain can be expected in this nearly 70-year-old building. The free WiFi worked much better than on our previous stays. The hotel draws a mix of Thai and Western travellers and is one of the better options for striking up conversations. Staffers offer transport bookings, motorbike rental and even a tattoo parlour squeezed between the lobby and cafe.

Sri Trang is one of several places to stay within sight of the train station. Chom Trang has more modern rooms across the road, while neighbouring Mitree House has quality triple rooms for around 1,000 baht, though we’d avoid its windowless double rooms. The nearby Thumrin Hotel lacks the charm of Sri Trang but has similarly priced rooms to go with a lift and car park.