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Relying on basic shared cold-water bathrooms with bucket-flush Western toilets at the end of the halls, the small rooms come with thin mattresses on steel frames, worn linens, wall-mounted fans and small tables. Also expect peeling paint and battered makeup desks—this is not the lap of luxury but it’s hard to argue with the dirt-cheap prices.

No-frills, no-fuss rooms. Photo: David Luekens

Soft-spoken owner Joy is slow on her feet but speaks the best English of any local we’ve met in Trang. She provides motorbike rental along with info on islands, including transfer bookings, and her son is a local tuk tuk driver offering trips to outlying attractions. The cluttered living room doubles as reception and parking space for the bikes; guests are welcome to hang here and watch TV with Joy and her family members. Free WiFi is also available.

PJ is easily overlooked despite its convenient location. Head to your right (southwest) across the parking area from the train station and you’ll find it amid some greenery in a white shophouse. Another very cheap option is Koh Teng, a larger budget hotel found a short walk east down Phra Ram VI.