Chez Loan Hotel has an enviable location, opposite rice paddies and backed by karst formations on the road between Tam Coc and Bich Dong Pagoda.

Rooms are good too: while basic in fittings, the cheerful soft furnishings really enhance their appeal and they feel cosy and welcoming. All rooms have windows with views, and although the cheaper rooms -- and their windows -- are small, some of the larger rooms have balconies. Rooms for up to six people are available. Avoid the cheapest standard rooms on the ground floor as they are uninspiring and smell damp. Chez Loan also has a decent restaurant, which is just as well as it's a few very dark kilometres from Tam Coc. Before our visit we had read that staff did not speak English and were less than friendly to non-French speakers, but although the first part was true, the girl that showed us around was friendly enough and we got by with a mixture of school girl French and basic Vietnamese.

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Tam Coc, Bich Dong