The Tay Bac is the star attraction when it comes to accommodation in Lai Chau, and you should probably just head straight here and plop down.
The sleeps are in three buildings — but rooms with the most spark are available in the two-story stilt-house, which features some nice shared balconies for lounging in the evening. The rooms are a bit cramped, and are fan-only, but comfortable, with slatted wood walls, soft beds, and good shower baths. The most expensive rooms are available in the building at the very back, with it's nasty pink stucco hallways — not as much fun, as far as we're concerned, but the air-con options are here, along with more spacious rooms with big broadcast TVs, desks, fridges, and high recessed ceilings. For the money, if the stilt house is full or not to your liking, head elsewhere. You can also, of course, get a massage if you like. The staff speak a bit of English and is very helpful.
Type of room, low and high season prices
Room: Dbl fan private bathroom, low season: 120,000 dong, high season 120,000 dong. Notes: Stilt room
Room: Standard double room, low season: 220,000 dong, high season 220,000 dong. Notes: Main building
Room: Superior double room, low season: 240,000 dong, high season 240,000 dong. Notes: Main building
143 Tran Hung Dau, along the main road
T: (213) 387 5879
F: (213) 387 6237
Room rates: US$10 to 20