For an out of town experience, try Highlands Homestay.

It's a homestay in the manufactured sense of the word -- a purpose-built stilt house next to the real house – and is still being finalised, but it's open for business and shows promise. Downstairs will be a restaurant, where Hoa Sua trained owner Ly Dung will cook up traditional food, and upstairs is open plan sleeping – although there are plans to divide it into smaller rooms. It's a mat on the floor with mossie net kind of place but clean and bright with a balcony perfect for reading a good book on, once they get some chairs in. A shared toilet and shower are located downstairs. Ly Dung speaks a little English but enlist the help of a Vietnamese friend if you can or send an SMS. The homestay is around two kilometres from Bac Ha town; walk past the Sao Mai hotel, turn left after the hospital and keep going. It's a bit of an uphill walk so hire a motorbike or motorbike taxi – about 20,000 VND -- if you have heavy bags, or call Ly Dung for a pick up.

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Ban Pho Village, Bac Ha