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This family-run accommodation has rooms and cottages, both of which exude French charm in the simple details: stone foundation, exterior siding, French windows and a front porch shaded by frangipani trees and vibrant bushy pink bougainvillea. Lovely curb appeal aside, the interiors are simple but elegant, comfortable and well maintained. Mattresses are amazing (rock hard Southeast Asia beds these are not), there’s air-con or ceiling fan, a minifridge, safety box, kettle and WiFi. There are four rooms in a single building at the front, perfectly good for one or two people. Bathrooms are spacious and have a separate shower and sink with countertop.

Bungalow bliss. Photo: Cindy Fan

The bungalows are bigger, and the front porch is the big selling point. It has a countertop with a sink and you can ask for cooking equipment to be set up your own little outdoor kitchen and whip up your own meals. We could see how the bungalow’s semi-outdoor shower may be controversial: some will love it, others may not. The water is also warm rather than hot but a minor detail that can be overlooked in Mui Ne’s tropical climate.

More details we love: big drinking water dispensers available for a small cost — bring it to your room (yay to no small plastic bottles!). There’s also a laundry machine guests can use for free, clothes lines, hammocks, garden swings and the prettiest chickens roaming the lawn that we have ever seen. Seriously, we know our chickens. It all adds up to a sweet, peaceful feeling, an affordable respite to rest after all that sand dune climbing and windsurfing.

I think we’re in the tropics. Photo: Cindy Fan

Cat Sen Auberge is located at the eastern edge of the main drag, just past the strip of bo ke seafood joints. You will need to rent a bicycle or motorbike to get to tourist drag or the areas of beach good for swimming.

Not surprising, Cat Sen is popular, especially with long-term stays. In high season book in advance to avoid disappointment. The owners speak perfect French, English and Chinese and they are keen to help and make guests comfortable. It’s a great deal.