Photo: There is always time for more satay.

Eat and meet

Overall Sanur offers a more relaxed, old-school eating scene than its cutting-edge sister, Seminyak. The village has a pleasant boardwalk that runs the entire length of the beach, with plenty of cafes and restaurants backing on to it. The main street of Danau Tamblingan and its offshoots also offer a selection of eateries. The mix varies immensely, from a simple Bintang on the beach through to very well priced almost-fine dining. A lot of joints serve somewhat depressingly homogenised international fare, but we've tried to list here the more interesting offerings.

By the beach

While the boardwalk is excellent for a long walk or bike ride and there are loads of cafes and restaurants skirting it, the selection of really noteworthy spots is actually pretty small. Nevertheless, you can settle in at a few solid places for the day on loungers, or tuck into delicious meals at a number of spots.

Attached to Segara Village, Byrdhouse Beach Club offers a number of eating options: Le Pirate with seafood, local and international fare, Amuse Gueule for burgers and wood-fired pizzas, and the excellent Minami, for Japanese (there is also a branch in Ubud). A gelato cart and crepe/waffle cart will sort out the snackers. Regular events include an Indonesian buffet dinner with a Balinese dance performance and a monthly Sunday market. Sit at a table for nothing, or there's a minimum consumption of 250,000 rupiah per person to use the lovely 30-metre pool and hang out for the day.

Beach Cafe has been around for a decade or so, and continues to serve up a solid range of well executed Indonesian and Western dishes. There's a couple of loungers you can grab at the front if you're early, tables plonked in the sand or an indoor fan-cooled area as well. We love their steak sandwich for lunch.

Grab a beachside spot at Byrdhouse Beach Club.

Grab a beachside spot at Byrdhouse Beach Club. Photo: Sally Arnold

Just next door, reggae-inspired Mango Beach Restaurant serves up a good range of international hits under shady trees. The vibe is old-school, live music is on now and again, and the menu features the world's greatest hits: BLT sandwich, mixed sate, sirloin steak, chicken gordon bleu (sic) and spaghetti bolognese—you get the idea.

Heading further south, Sand Beach Club and Restaurant is set in the old Bonsai Cafe, which has access through the back to Jalan Danau Tamblingan—the signs make it clear you are not supposed to use the restaurant to access the beach from the road unless you are actually eating here, but enforcement was lax when we came through. Sit under cover, or head to the pleasant alang-alang roofed area set on the sands just outside. The usual international menu is on offer. Look for the white penjors.

A taste of yesterday on Sanur Beach: Warung  Pantai Indah.

A taste of yesterday on Sanur Beach: Warung Pantai Indah. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Long-running Warung Pantai Indah is a taste of what Sanur was like before the fancy hotels and restaurants moved in. It's just a few wooden tables and benches in the sand with makeshift roofs, plus a small restaurant area just along the boardwalk. This is the spot to sip a cold Bintang (they claim the coldest on the beach), order a curry or two, and settle in for a few hours while the kids play in the sand. The food is nothing special, but this is no-fuss, no-nonsense, old school Bali. An old favourite -- recommended. Its days must surely be numbered.

The Bali Hyatt is closed for renovations as of early 2017, but they have a few white lounge chairs on the beach and a skeleton kitchen was in operation when we whizzed past in February. This is a pleasant stretch of sand, and it's worth investigating if you're looking for a quiet patch to chill out on for the day.

La Playa is a fine pick for south Sanur.

La Playa is a fine pick for south Sanur. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Heading further south, La Playa offers a step up on the usual fare in an appealing spot, with tables sunk into the sand or an indoor area to choose from. We liked the sound of their daily special: tuna ceviche with avocado and mint puree, apple, watercress, roast chilli salsa and rice crackers. They also offer pasta, pizza and Balinese specialties.

Nearby Lilla Pantai is a sharply run operation also with tables in the sand edging the boardwalk, plus a lounge, restaurant and pretty bar; it's a level above most of the beachside joints when it comes to decor. Expect local dishes like chicken betutu as well as Western dishes a step above the norm. Look for the red chilli sign.

Cheaper than a room! Sunset drinks and live acoustic music at the Fairmont.

Cheaper than a room! Sunset drinks and live acoustic music at the Fairmont. Photo: Stuart McDonald

The big name in this area of Sanur is the ostentatious Fairmont. Can't afford a room here? Maybe a cocktail and some live music might let you dream for a bit. A happy hour was running 17:00-19:00 when we ambled past, and the live music sounded a notch above average too.

Back to reality, long-running and popular Stiff Chilli serves up cheap and cheerful Italian and local specialties by the sands. Expect no-nonsense but decent quality pizzas, pastas plus other Italian dishes and house-made gelato.

Stiff Chilli is popular for a reason.

Stiff Chilli is popular for a reason. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Byrdhouse Beach Club: Jalan Segara Ayu, Sanur; T: (0361) 288 407;; open daily 06:00-24:00.
Beach Cafe: Pantai Sindhu, Sanur; T: (0361) 282 875;; open daily breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Fairmount: Jalan Kusuma Sari No. 8, Sanur; T: (0361) 301 1888.
La Playa: Jalan Pantai Duyung, beachfront Sanur (next to Bali Hyatt); T: (0821) 4794 4514; open breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Lilla Pantai: Jalan Duyung, beachfront Sanur; T: (0821) 4457 9142; open daily 08:00-23:00.
Mango Beach Restaurant: Jalan Segara Ayu, Pantai Sindhu, Sanur; T (0361) 281001; open 09:00-23:30.
Sand Beach Club: Entry via Jalan Danau Tamblingan 27, Sanur; T: (0361) 282 909; open daily 07:00-23:00.
Stiff Chilli: Jalan Kesuma Sari 11, Semawang Beach, Sanur; T: (0361) 288 371;; open daily 07:30-22:00.
Warung Pantai Indah: Sanur Beach; open lunch and dinner.


Our go-to spot for Balinese and Indonesian specialties is the lovely and long-running Pregina's. The lovely decor is a notch above the usual tourist joints along Danau Tamblingan—think red-cushioned tables and benches overseen by a classic photo of a kecak dance, a soaring ceiling and upturned canoe as a light fitting. Service is super friendly and prices are cheap. We love the shredded chicken in Balinese red sauce, which comes with a generous veggie salad on the side and rice. You'll find a range of good drinks—their ginger fizz is great—and also classic desserts like deep-fried fermented yam with ice cream. Highly recommended.

The excellent Balinese shredded chicken at Pregina's.

The excellent Balinese shredded chicken at Pregina's. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Warung Mak Beng is another not-to-be-missed Indonesian favourite. The long-running, one-dish restaurant draws in the hungry locals, domestic visitors and the occasional traveller by the table-ful. A standard set (45,000 rupiah) includes a fried, meaty piece of ikan laut goreng—fried sea fish—with a wonderful smoked sambal and kaffir lime on the side, fish head (or vegetable) soup and a plate of rice. A few no-fuss wooden tables and benches serve their purpose and a one-page menu explains the special and lists drinks.

Photos of visitors adorn the walls; history is important in this place, which claims to have been around in the same location just off the beach since 1941 (peek in the kitchen and you'll believe it). If you’re heading to Nusa Lembongan, you can probably squeeze in a meal between your pick up by one of the boat operators and the actual boat departure.

A Mak Beng standard spread.

A Mak Beng standard spread. Photo: Sally Arnold

Warung Babi Guling Sanur is one of our fave babi guling (suckling pig) joints on the island. Just opposite McDonald’s on the bypass, it’s a bit of a hike from the main tourist drag but it’s worth it. The staff told us they usually go through three pigs a day, all prepared on the premises out the back. The serving of pork and crackling are generous and the accompaniments, such as a veggie-packed urap, are excellent. On the side comes a thick, flavoursome soup.

Tucked into a gang on the non-beach side of the bypass is decades-old Warung Pak Kodi and Bu Nyemplo, and they also serve up babi guling, with a side of traditional lawar—it’s the lawar that this place is locally famed for. Lawar is a Balinese salad typically served for ceremonies; it’s made of minced meat with various Balinese spices and, classically, fresh blood; if you’re looking to try a genuine version, and you’re staying in Sanur, make a detour here for an authentic experience. You’ll see people pulling in on their motorbikes to the completely unmarked restaurant located down a narrow gang right from 18:00 when doors open; it’s practically a drive-through, but a large wooden-tabled, open-air dining area fills up as the evening moves on. Think dusty, uncovered fans, an ancient TV plonked on a fridge and a simple display case holding all the dishes made from the pig—sate, pork in gravy, crackling, crispy skin, lawar and soup, plus rice. There’s not really a menu, so you just say how many portions you’d like. Hygiene might not be a priority here, but at least turnover is fast!

Real deal lawar at Kodi's.

Real deal lawar at Kodi's. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Men Weti’s is a great local Sanur warung that’s been serving up a Balinese version of Indonesia’s famed nasi campur, or mixed dishes with steamed white rice, for around 25 years. Tucked away on a road running just off Sanur beach, it’s easy to find: Look for the standing-room-only crowds who’ll be congregating on the footpath outside the kiosk-style restaurant from 08:00 until around midday. Get there earlier rather than later to ensure there are still dishes left. On our visit we tucked into a generous serving of ayam betutu, or chicken in a Balinese bumbu spice paste, shredded ayam panggang, also beautifully spiced, a Balinese urap, or salad, featuring bean sprouts and other greens with coconut, and a boiled egg with a dollop of fiery tomato sambal. A mound of steamed white rice on the side, served from a basket, rounds off the Balinese version of a fast food meal.

For a fancier setting, lovely Warung Blanjong gets great reports for its Balinese specialities, Indonesian standards like nasi campur and mie goreng, and a selection of Western dishes. It has a lovely interior area plus a half-dozen tables shaded by umbrellas set roadside.

Pull up a bench if you can find one and dig in to a great nasi campur at Men Weti's.

Pull up a bench if you can find one and dig in to a great nasi campur at Men Weti's. Photo: Sally Arnold

If you prefer to keep it simple, Sari Bundo just across the road does great Padang-style meals. Peek in the front glass window to see the mounds of flavourful spiced dishes ready to be served to guests—civilised fast food really, Indonesian style.

Also in South Sanur you'll find Warung Parahyangan, another cheap and cheerful spot for Indonesian standards, but particularly excelling in ikan bakar. Try the beansprouts with salted fish too (if you like salted fish).

Oops, we did it again. Feeling full at Warung Parahyangan.

Oops, we did it again. Feeling full at Warung Parahyangan. Photo: Sally Arnold

Pregina's: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 106, Sanur; T: (0361) 283 353; open lunch and dinner.
Mak Beng: Just off the beach, Jalan Hang Tuah 45, Sanur; T: (0361) 282 633; open daily 08:00-22:00.
Men Weti's: Just off Sanur beach, Jalan Ayu Segara (on left as leaving beach), Sanur; open Mon-Sat 08:00-midday.
Warung Babi Guling Sanur: Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai, Sanur; T: (0361) 287 308; open daily from around 11:00.
Warung Blanjong: Jalan Danua Poso 78, Sanur; T: (0361) 285 613; open daily 08:00-22:00.
Warung Pak Kodi and Bu Nyemplo: Gang Harum 10, off Jalan Sekuta, Sanur; T: (0361) 289 230; open daily from 18:00.
Warung Parahyangan: Jalan Cemara, Sanur; T: (0812) 3824 3006; open daily.


Sanur boasts some superb cafes to hang out in for a few hours, nibbling on cake, sipping excellent coffee and watching the world go by.

One of our favourite spots to chill is Melbourne-inspired Soul in a Bowl, a breezy two-storey affair with great cakes, salads, burgers and sandwiches. Patterned ceramic-tiled floors lend a sophisticated feel, and vintage posters add to the vibe. The salted chocolate brownies are simply wicked, and on a hot day you can't beat their house frappuccino: blended double espresso, ice cream and milk. We haven't yet visited of an evening, when the cafe transforms into more of a restaurant, with a tapas and dinner menu, and upstairs becomes a candlelit cocktail lounge, but we'd advise it's probably worth a look then too.

A pick-me-up to last all afternoon at Soul in a Bowl.

A pick-me-up to last all afternoon at Soul in a Bowl. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Just next door is the more modest and less sleek, but certainly charming and eclectically put together Putih Pino Cafe & Studio. The look is gingerbread-house style wooden trimmings, pastel-coloured ceramic tile features, white wicker chairs and beaded doorways; there's a Japanese hand in here and the Japanese portion of the menu is the direction you should head in, though you can also choose from Indonesian standards and some other international dishes. There's a great selection of teas and other drinks, too.

Cafe Batujimbar is one of Sanur's most consistently popular restaurants, serving up great coffee and excellent meals from breakfast through dinner. Sit in the fan-cooled wooden interior or outside under one of the signature red umbrellas. Meals are pricey for Sanur—particular their sandwiches—but the quality is good. This is one place for the less adventurous eater to very safely try Indonesian food, such a plate of nasi campur or bubur ayam (though the price would no doubt make a street vendor faint). A bustling and popular market sets up on Sunday mornings out front, with stalls selling food, fruit and vegetables, jewellery and so on.

Sunny Sunday market at Cafe Batujimbar.

Sunny Sunday market at Cafe Batujimbar. Photo: Stuart McDonald

A little further north along Danau Tamblingan, 2006-opened, Swedish-run Café Smörgås is these days a deserved Sanur fixture on the scene. Smörgås means sandwich in Swedish, but the offerings extend to various other dishes like wraps, burgers, salads and soups. We repeatedly order the Swedish meatball open sandwich, on pickled beetroot salad. It's really, really good. Their ice-cold cafe Milano, blended coffee with a touch of hazelnut, is also the business. A solid selection of juices for health nuts and sweets for the opposite of health nuts, too.

Australian-run Porch is another of our fave Sanur spots for coffee and a light meal. Their custom-blend caramel-y brew hits the spot perfectly, as do their great breakfasts (the Recovery, a bacon and egg sandwich with barbecue or tomato sauce, is excellent for a, well, have a guess). At lunchtime the wraps and salads are excellent, while they also offer dinners like pies, burgers and pasta. Great baked goods too, if you're craving a classic lemon or caramel slice, but our favourite is their meringue, served with whipped cream and fruit. Inside a handful of tables offer air-con comfort, but outside on their veranda is lovely too.

The Swedish meatball sandwich at Smorgas: Yes please, again and again.

The Swedish meatball sandwich at Smorgas: Yes please, again and again. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Right by each other, Bread Basket Bakery & Cafe and Square One both offer a good array of breakfasts, sandwiches, cakes and salads. Breadbasket bakes all their own breads from scratch, as their name might suggest, and the French rustic decor creates a pleasant vibe. Square One's breakfasts and lunches are solidly imaginative, and the emphasis is a little stronger here on good coffee, though we haven't tried it yet.

2016-opened The Owl is a charming little whitewashed wooden spot with eclectic decor, and a superb range of healthy international dishes, juices and coffees. We haven't eaten here yet but the honey banana French toast gets solid reports and the veggie sandwich looks amazing. Pop into the air-con directly off the street, and sit up or downstairs to recharge or linger over a more substantial meal.

Wise up to the facts, guys.

Wise up to the facts, guys. Photo: Stuart McDonald

The Sanur outlet of Bali-chain Cafe Moka isn't in the best location, way out on the main bypass road, but if you've got your own wheels or if you simply must have a proper French millefeuille, then this is where you need to be. A great range of pastries are on offer here—their eclairs are also divine—and the coffees and teas are fine too. Breakfast sets are a good deal, and other light meals including quiches, tartines, pastas, burgers, sandwiches and salads are available.

Also out of the way is La Tartine, the restaurant attached to pretty Hotel Puri Tempo Doeloe. Set in a white glass-enclosed joglo, the quirky decor is worth the trip alone—look out for decoupaged grandfather clock and Javanese puppets as you sink into one of the velvet lounge chairs. But the great tartines -- open-faced sandwiches -- are also worthy of a diversion, and friendly staff round out a neat little unusual cafe.

A tartine at La Tartine, naturally.

A tartine at La Tartine, naturally. Photo: Sally Arnold

Kopi Bali House is another bypass-set cafe, and boy does it pull in the crowds. Popular in particular with locals, it's a two-storey air-con building that doesn't have an awful lot of character, but it does great coffee and serves easy light meals as well. The Tjahjadi family has been in the coffee business in Bali since 1935 (they also have a more local-style spot on Jalan Gajah Mada, Denpasar).

If healthy cuisine is what you're after, the Sanur outlet of the Bali Buda empire will deliver the goods. They offer an amazing array of very well priced delicious drinks and meals that will appeal to those who really care about the earth and watch what they eat. Up for a bullet coffee? Ayurvedic golden tea? Green superfood smoothie? They've got you. The standard coffee is done by Indonesia's excellent Anomali. On the food front, they have raw vegan energy snacks, salads, snacks, pizzas, macrobiotic plates, enchiladas and way more. Recommended.

A massive falafel plate at Zula.

A massive falafel plate at Zula. Photo: Sally Arnold

Another option for raw vegan and other healthful food is Zula. Think seitan schnitzels, chickpea burgers and veggie nori maki, plus loads of healthy cakes and energy snacks—they also stock raw chocolate. Hello!

Bali Buda: Jalan Danau Tamblingan, Sanur; T: (0361) 288 732;; open daily 07:00-22:00.
Bread Basket Bakery & Cafe: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 51, Sanur; T: (0361) 282 339;; open till 17:00.
Cafe Batujimbar: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 75A, Sanur; T: (0361) 287 374;; open daily 07:00-23:00.
Cafe Moka:
Café Smörgås: Corner Jalan Danau Tamblingan and Jalan Pantai Karang, Sanur; T: (0361) 289 361;; open daily 07:00-22:00.
La Tartine: Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai 209, Sanur; T: (0361) 286 542;; open Mon-Sat 08:00-18:00.
Putih Pino Cafe: Jalan Karang Sari 1, Sanur; T: (0361) 287 889; open daily 08:00-19:00.
Soul in a Bowl: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 180, Sanur; T: (0361) 472 0063;; open daily 08:00-23:30.
Square One: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 51, Sanur; T: (0878) 6178 6459;; open daily 07:00-19:00.
The Owl: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 50, Sanur; T: (0813) 3773 2570.
Zula: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 150, Sanur; T: (0361) 849 7244;; open daily 07:00-22:00.

Modern international

When does a cafe become a restaurant? It's a blurry line, but we think gorgeous Three Monkeys slides safely into the restaurant category, though of course you could still pop in here for just a coffee and something sweet as well. All the meals we've had here have been delicious and we're big fans of their house-made pastas. The contemporary successfully joins Indonesian, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean hits, with a few extras like pizzas. Service is polished. Sip on a pre-dinner drink on their terrace, then move under the soaring thatched roof pavilion for an evening to remember.

Another cafe/restaurant hybrid is the Sanur outlet of Grocer & Grind just slides into the restaurant category, though you could perfectly happily just pop in here for a cuppa and cake as well. Their main meals though are really a cut above the usual tourist nosh along Danau Tamblingan, and the feel is sleek, too. Their gourmet sausages served with your choice of mash and sauce is what grown ups dream of.

Street view of Three Monkeys.

Street view of Three Monkeys. Photo: Stuart McDonald

One of Sanur's little secrets—at least, it used to be—is straightforward, tiny, fan-cooled Kayu Manis. The menu is short and sweet, but the dishes are well executed and far better than they sound. The priciest item is a 200,000 rupiah Australian tenderloin with wasabi black pepper sauce. We love that this little local joint that only seats around 20 people is able to compete with the fanciest joints around for a special meal. Popular with expats.

We simply adore Indian-leaning but international-roaming Malaika Secret Moksha. Sit upstairs in the fan-cooled, whitewashed wooden area, or downstairs in air-con. The appeal is the wide range of delectable fresh dishes on offer, with plenty of vegan and raw options. We tried the grilled vegetable lasagne, worthy of being served in a top restaurant, and had one of their herbal drinks on the side. Highly recommended.

Malaika: No longer a secret that it serves the best darn veggie lasagne in town.

Malaika: No longer a secret that it serves the best darn veggie lasagne in town. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Professionally run The Glass House is another spot where you can pop in for a coffee, but the menu's a cut above the usual tourist-oriented joints, so we reckon it's worth a peek for a proper meal too. Perhaps try the organic salt and lime cured smoked salmon with cucumber and caper remolade, baby back pork ribs rubbed with palm sugar and spices, or grilled barramundi with steamed Asian greens and mango chutney. There's no beach view as this is another Danau Tamblingan spot, but the Aperol Spritzer and Mango Caipirinha would bring the waves to mind, no doubt.

If you just need a simple steak to satisfy a craving, Arena Pub and Restaurant on the bypass road will do the job. It's a favourite hang for expatriates and local Indonesians alike, serving up a solid range of pub fare, though across a range of national cuisines, at reasonable prices considering the quality. Their steak range in particular is varied, plus you'll find burgers, cheese plates, pastas, salads and seafood... It's packed solid every evening despite its off-the-beach location and lack of much in the way of character.

The Glasshouse has a few bricks as well.

The Glasshouse has a few bricks as well. Photo: Stuart McDonald

CharMing is a long-running Sanur institution, set in a beautiful statue-strewn garden,Javanese joglo and Balinese wantilan. The food is Indonesian, French and Italian, and it all comes together beautifully.

Whitewashed, boho Nook proved so popular in Umalas that they've opened a second branch here in Sanur. It doesn't have the rice-paddy-views appeal of its elder sister and it's off the beach, so the focus here has to be on the food. The menu is the same: an eclectic range of salads, burgers, grills and so on.

You can't beat the romantic setting at Charming.

You can't beat the romantic setting at Charming. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Arena Pub and Restaurant: Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai 115, Sanur; T: (0361) 287 255; open daily 12:00-24:00.
CharMing: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 97, Sanur; T: (0361) 288029;; open daily 17:00-23:00.
Grocer & Grind: Jalan Danau Tamblingan, Sanur; T: (0361) 270 635;; open daily 07:00-22:00.
Kayu Manis: Tandakan 6, between Jalan Danau Tamblingan and the bypass, a block south of McDonalds, Sanur; T: (0361) 289 410; open daily 18:00-22:00.
Malaika Secret Moksha; 68 Jalan Danau Poso, Sanur; (0812) 3834 1000; open daily 08:00-23:00.
Nook: Jalan Pantai Sindu, Sanur; T: (0361) 271 233.
Three Monkeys: Jalan Danau Tamblingan, Sanur; T: (0361) 286 002;; open daily

Other Asian

Long-running Ryoshi is a Japanese chain with branches at a few locations in Bali—they're all good. In Sanur sit in the fan-cooled area out front or head for the air-con room out back, regularly packed with Japanese guests. The fare is typical of what you'll find in a Japanese restaurant anywhere in the world, with everything from sushi sets to big bowls of ramen. Prices, for the quality and serving size, are reasonable.

Another option is Kokoya , a second Sanur Japanese cheapie stalwart, presenting in pleasant surrounds Japan's greatest hits: bento boxes, sashimi, curries and more.

Step inside Ryoshi's entrance for some of Bali's best Japanese food.

Step inside Ryoshi's entrance for some of Bali's best Japanese food. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Now we haven't tried high-end Soya, but the Japanese outlet with its red doors looks simply stunning. Prices are higher than your average joint, but so is the standard of decor, presentation and food. Choose from a full selection of sushi and sashimi, bento boxes, donburi, noodles and terikyaki dishes. If you're after something special, this would be worth a look-see.

For a Chinese fix—Australian style—Fortune Cookie is a good pick in South Sanur. They used to be delivery only but these days you can also dine in. Think kung pao chicken, lemon calamari, beef in black bean sauce and sweet and sour fish. When you're in the mood for this kind of food, it delivers the goods (literally, if required).

Elegant Soya.

Elegant Soya. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Gateway to India is Sanur's go-to Indian joint. Part of a 1998-launched chain that now has five restaurants across Bali, it's not cheap, but it's done well.They serve up both North and South Indian food, and have a traditional clay oven to whip up Tandoori dishes, too.

Ulu Thai was Sanur's first Thai restaurant and while we reckon their dishes are a bit on the sweet, toned-down side, they do offer a good range of classic Thai dishes. Start with fish cakes, follow up with a spread of tom kha gai, yam woon seng, massaman curry and a hor mok pla. All the standards are here, plus a few Indonesian and Western dishes if there are non-Thai lovers in your group. It's not Thailand, but it's about as close as you'll get in Sanur.

Expect a small selection of Thai dishes at covivial-looking Little Thai Waroeng, such as tom yam kung, pad thai and red and green curry. We haven't tried them yet, and wouldn't have enormous hopes of them hitting Thai flavours out of the park, but perhaps they do (and they are super cheap)!

Fortune Cookie: Jalan Sudamala #5, Sanur; T: (0361) 283 342;; open daily 10:00-23:00.
Gateway to India: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 103, Sanur; T: (0361) 281 579;; open daily 10:30-22:30.
Kokoya: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 178, Sanur; T: (0361) 289252; open lunch and dinner.
Little Thai Waroeng: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 78, Sanur; T: (0813) 3775 8887; open daily lunch and dinner.
Ryoshi: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 150, Sanur; T: (0361) 288 473;; open daily 11:00-23:00.
Soya: Jalan Danau Tamblingan; T: (0361) 849 7830; open daily lunch and dinner.
Ulu Thai: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 85, Sanur, T: (0361) 282 328; (0361) 207 6854;; open daily lunch and dinner.


Massimo's is everyone's favourite neighbourhood Italian. It's enormously popular—expect queues out the door during high season—and with good reason. Massimo serves up no-fuss, delicious Italian dishes, from great pastas to pizzas, veggies to mains, and their gelato on its own draws the crowds on its own. Kids' are kept happy with a good menu and parents are kept happy with reasonably priced house wine. The restaurant has a few different dining areas—if you can't bear the heat, there is an air-con room out the back you can ask to be seated in.

If you can't get in at Massimo's, Trattoria has a branch just a few doors down. They serve up great Italian food too, just without the extra feel good factor that comes for free at more-atmospheric Massimo's.

Massimo's gelato. Aaaaah.

Massimo's gelato. Aaaaah. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Stepping it up a notch, The Village is Sanur's most upmarket Italian joint. We've not eaten here, but if you're after a more special meal, the decor is flash (maybe not quite to our tastes) and the menu expansive.

Massimo's: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 228, Sanur; T: (03610 288 942, (0811) 399 9727;; open daily 11:00-23:00.
The Village: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 47, Sanur; T: (0361) 285 025;; open daily 11:00-23:00.
Trattoria: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 190, Sanur; T: (0361) 285 733;; open daily 11:00-23:30.


It's just a literal little hole in the wall with a few tables, but Warung Sanur Segar draws a crowd for its generously sized servings of Mexican dishes—or rather, "CaliIndoFusion" dishes. Think burritos, quesadillas, wraps and sandwiches, plus a few smoothies and juices, all well priced and served with a smile.

We've not eaten yet at adorable Jalapeno, but if the food is anywhere near as good as the decor, it'll be worth it. The roadside restaurant features a takeaway window and a few outdoor tables, or you can head into air-con comfort to sample their Mexican dishes (loads of tacos, Mexican rice, grilled corn, burritos, churros) and cocktails—the focus is very much on tequila, naturally.

Technically, CaliIndoFusion.

Technically, CaliIndoFusion. Photo: Sally Arnold

Kalimantan is practically a Sanur institution. It's certainly rundown and could do with some TLC, but thatched roof pavilions are set in a scattering of magnificent trees that makes one wonder what it was like here before tourism came along. They serve up no-fuss basic Mexican traveller fare—tacos, ceviche, huevos rancheros, enchiladas, margaritas—along with Indonesian and Western selections. Worth checking out if you've had enough of sleek and modern.

Old school.

Old school. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Jalapeno: Jalan Danau Tamblingan 102 (next to Bali Buda), Sanur; T: (0361) 449 0325; open daily 11:00-24:00.
Kalimantan: Jalan Pantai Sindhu 11, Sanur; T: (0361) 289 291; open daily 07:30-23:00.
Warung Sanur Segar: Jalan Pantai Sindu 2A, Sanur; T: (0853) 7991 8171.

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Where to next?

Where are you planning on heading to after Sanur? Here are some spots commonly visited from here, or click here to see a full destination list for Indonesia.

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